TOYS:  THEIR 
DESIGN  AND 
CONSTRUCTION 


J.  KAY  and    C.  T.  WHITE 


TOYS 

THEIR  DESIGN  AND  CONSTRUCTION 


.     m; 

SOME   OF  THE  TOYS   BEING    USED   IN   A   DAY   NURSERY 


[Frontispiece 


TOYS: 


THEIR    DESIGN    AND 


CONSTRUCTION 


J.  KAY  and  C.  T.  WHITE 


WITH    ILLUSTRATIONS 
IN  LINE  AND  HALF-TONE 


CHAS.  A.  BENNETT  CO.,  INC. 

PEORIA    •    ILLINOIS 


PRINTED    IN    GREAT    BRITAIN 


CONTENTS 

SOME  OF  THE  TOYS   BEING  USED  IN  A  DAY  NURSERY         .          .  frontispiece 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION 7 

PLATES    I— VIII Facing  8 

DRESSER  WITH  DOORS  PIVOTED 

CRADLE  AND  COT 

WHEELED  HORSE  AND  ROCKING  HORSE 

ROCKER  AND  STEPPED  SLIDE 

CLIMBING  FRAME  WITH  SLIDE.     SEE-SAW 

METAL  SWING 

STREAM-LINED  LOCOMOTIVE.     ROCKING   DUCK 

WHEELBARROW  AND  ENGINE 

JOINTS 10 

PEG-TRAIN    SET 14 

SIMPLE    RAILWAY    STATION 16 

SMALL    BOATS 18 

SMALL    LORRIES 20 

BRICKS 22 

SIMPLE   SENSE-TRAINING    APPARATUS 24 

FLAT   TROLLEY 26 

CRADLE 28 

COTS 30 

DRESSERS 32 

FUN    BOAT 34 

DUCK    BOAT 36 

FLYING    DUCK 38 

"TISHY" 40 

SMALL    ROCKING    HORSE 42 

DOLL'S   HOUSE 44 

DOLL'S   HOUSE:    DINING-ROOM   SUITE 48 

DOLL'S   HOUSE:    BEDROOM   SUITE 50 

DOLL'S   HOUSE:    KITCHEN    FURNITURE 52 

MARIONETTE   THEATRE 54 

GLOVE-PUPPET  THEATRE  56 


2033523 


CONTENT  S— continued 

PAGE 

MODEL   THEATRE 58 

SCENERY    FOR    MODEL   THEATRE    ....  .60 

CASTLE 62 

WHEELS:   THEIR    MAKING   AND   FIXING 64 

BREN-GUN    CARRIER 70 

DUCK   CART   AND   BRICKS .72 

ELEPHANT    AND   CART 74 

TIP   LORRY 76 

BREAKDOWN    AND   G.P.    LORRIES 78 

SCOOTER 80 

TANK 82 

HORSE   ON   WHEELS 84 

SACK   TRUCK 86 

COASTER 88 

DOG   ON   WHEELS 90 

NOAH'S   ARK 92 

ANIMALS 94 

ENGINE 96 

STREAM-LINED    LOCOMOTIVE 98 

WHEELBARROW 102 

SMALL   SWING 104 

METAL   SWING 106 

SEE-SAW 108 

WAREHOUSE   TROLLEY NO 

LONG   SWING 112 

TUBULAR    ROCKER 1 14 

SMALL   SLIDE    .         .         . .         .  ||6 

CLIMBING    FRAME    AND   SLIDE 118 

JUNGLE-GYM 120 

GENERAL   HINTS 122 

6 


INTRODUCTION 

This  book  had  its  genesis  in  a  number  of  designs  prepared  by  the  authors  for  use  in 
London  handicraft  centres.  The  initial  aim  was  threefold.  At  a  time  when  little  but 
salvaged  timber  was  available  it  was  hoped  that  the  designs  would  provide  a  basis  for 
a  scheme  of  craft  training  which  would  include  most  of  the  common  tool  and  constructional 
operations,  there  was  urgent  need  for  the  provision  of  toys  and  equipment  for  the  large 
number  of  nurseries  which  were  being  opened,  and  it  seemed  desirable  that  as  much  as 
possible  of  the  material  salvaged  from  bombed  schools  and  other  buildings  should  be  con- 
verted to  some  useful  purpose.  The  designs  proved  immediately  popular  with  teachers 
and  pupils,  both  of  whom  found  fresh  enthusiasm  in  the  new  line  of  work  and  satisfaction  in 
feeling  that  they  were  making  some  real  and  valuable  contribution  to  the  national  effort. 
Further  designs  were  prepared  and  a  steady  stream  of  toys  flowed  into  the  nurseries.  It 
is  hoped  that  a  similar  stimulation  will  be  given  to  the  production  of  toys  and  the  equipping 
of  nurseries  in  other  parts  of  the  country  by  the  production  of  the  designs  in  book 
form. 

A  good  toy  should  make  an  instinctive  appeal  to  a  child.  It  should  be  suitable  to  his 
age  and  development,  attractive  in  form  and  colour,  strong  in  construction  and  devoid  of 
sharp  edges  and  dangerous  projections.  With  these  qualities  it  should,  wherever  possible, 
combine  movement  in  some  form  or  other.  These  are  the  basic  requirements  of  any 
good  toy.  But  while  toys  should  be  so  attractive  that  children  immediately  wish  to  play 
with  them,  amusement  ought  not  to  be  regarded  as  their  sole  purpose.  Properly  con- 
structed they  are  a  valuable  means  of  furthering  the  child's  mental  and  physical  develop- 
ment. A  few  examples  may  help  to  illustrate  this.  The  large  building  bricks  on  Page  22 
provide  an  opportunity  for  the  exercise  of  creative  ability  ;  judgment  and  muscle  sense  are 
developed  by  the  use  of  the  hammer  peg  board,  while  manipulative  skill  and  an  appreciation 
of  shape  and  size  are  developed  by  the  use  of  the  posting  box,  insets  and  peg  shapes  on 
Page  24.  The  climbing  frame  and  chute  on  Page  1 18  provide  an  incentive  for  the  child  to 
stretch  and  exercise  his  arms  and  shoulders  by  pulling  himself  upwards  ;  the  slide  down  the 
chute  provides  a  pleasing  thrill  as  a  reward  for  his  effort  but  it  also  develops  his  confidence 
and  accustoms  him  to  ignore  little  shocks  and  bumps.  So,  too,  the  provision  of  a  central 
bar  on  the  rocker  on  Page  1 14  is  intended  to  compel  similar  stretching  and  pulling.  Two 
bars,  one  nearer  each  seat,  might  have  been  provided  so  that  the  children  could  sit  upright, 
but  this  arrangement  would  have  eliminated  very  largely  the  need  to  stretch  the  arms 
and  shoulders  and  legs.  Where  a  nursery  is  to  be  equipped  with  a  number  of  duck  carts 
(Page  72)  it  is  suggested  that  these  and  their  bricks  should  be  painted  in  distinctive  colours. 
The  bricks  may  then  be  heaped  on  the  floor  and  each  child  encouraged  to  collect  the 


INTRODUCTIO   N—  continued 

bricks  similar  in  colour  to  its  cart.     The  children  are  thus  provided  with  an  enjoyable 
game  and,  at  the  same  time,  a  useful  colour-training  exercise. 

Mention  has  been  made  of  the  conversion  of  salvage  into  useful  toys.  It  might  be 
helpful  to  point  out  a  few  examples  of  what  has  been  done  in  this  direction.  The  metal 
swing,  the  tubular  rocker,  the  warehouse  trolley  and  the  long  swing  were  designed  to  be 
constructed  from  the  damaged  tubular  frames  of  nursery  beds.  The  seats  of  broken 
Windsor  chairs  became  the  seats  of  the  rocker  and  the  swing.  Broken  "  bent-wood  " 
chairs  were  converted  into  sack  carts  and  used  for  the  legs  of  the  "  Tishy  "  horse  on 
Page  40.  Dumb-bells,  now  frowned  upon  for  physical  training,  each  made  two  very  useful 
broad  wheels  for  the  warehouse  trolley.  Short  ends  of  tubing  from  the  rest  beds  were 
used  as  bushes  for  wheels,  as  axles  and  as  distance  pieces  on  the  metal  swing.  By  the 
exercise  of  a  little  inventiveness  and  ingenuity  much  broken  and  disused  apparatus  may  be 
converted  into  useful  toys  for  the  nursery. 

Reference  to  the  various  designs  will  show  that  where  animal  forms  are  included  in  a 
toy  little  attempt  at  realism  has  been  made.  To  most  children  a  simple  shape  and  good 
proportion,  as  in  the  rocking  horse  on  Page  42,  are  much  more  pleasing  than  any  attempt 
at  realism,  however  successful.  Simple  forms  have,  therefore,  been  used  throughout 
except  in  the  animals  for  the  Ark  on  Page  94,  which  it  was  felt  should  receive  more 
realistic  treatment. 

Throughout  the  book  the  descriptive  matter  has  been  kept  opposite  its  illustrations 
and  the  latter  have,  as  far  as  possible,  been  made  self-explanatory.  The  designs  have  been 
prepared  for  workers  with  widely  varying  degrees  of  experience  and  craftsmanship. 
The  expert  will  need  little  more  than  the  suggestions  contained  in  the  drawings  ;  the 
inexperienced  worker,  however,  before  commencing  the  construction  of  any  toy,  is 
advised  to  read  the  text  carefully  and  study  the  illustrations  until  he  has  a  clear  mental 
picture  of  all  the  operations  involved.  Only  then  should  he  commence  the  actual  con- 
struction. By  following  this  advice  he  may  be  saved  much  disappointment  and  waste  of 
time  and  material.  Whether,  therefore,  he  be  the  boy  working  in  the  school  handicraft 
room,  the  home  craftsman  satisfying  an  urge  to  construct  by  making  toys  for  his  children, 
or  the  expert  "  in  the  trade,"  the  user  of  this  book  may  follow  its  suggestions  with 
confidence.  The  toys  have  been  tried  out  in  a  large  number  of  nurseries  and  the  methods 
of  construction  thoroughly  tested. 


T. — 2 


PLATE   I.— DRESSER    WITH    DOORS   PIVOTED 


PLATE   II.— CRADLE   AND    COT 


PLATE    III.— WHEELED    HORSE   AND    ROCKING    HORSE 


PLATE    IV.— ROCKER  AND  STEPPED  SLIDE 


PLATE   V.— CLIMBING    FRAME  WITH   SLIDE.     SEE-SAW 


PLATE   VI.— METAL  SWING 


PLATE   VII.— STREAM-LINED    LOCOMOTIVE.     ROCKING    DUCK 


PLATE  VIII.— WHEELBARROW  AND   ENGINE 


TOYS 

THEIR  DESIGN  AND  CONSTRUCTION 


T.— 3 


JOINTS 

A  well-fitting  joint  depends  upon  careful  preparation  of  the  timber,  accurate 
marking  out  with  thin  pencil  and  cut  lines,  the  proper  use  of  the  try  square 
and  gauges,  careful  cutting  with  saw  and  chisel  on  the  waste-wood  side  of  lines, 
and  the  retention  of  the  timber  in  one  piece  as  long  as  possible.  To  lessen 
possibility  of  error  it  is  advisable  to  mark,  with  a  "  W  "  or  other  mark,  the 
"  waste  "  or  timber  to  be  removed. 

Below  are  set  out  brief  instructions  for  making  the  joints  suggested  for  the 
toys  described  in  this  book. 

BUTT  JOINT  (Fig.  I). — The  ends  are  cut  accurately  square  in  both  directions,  then 
glued  and  nailed.  Note  that  into  end  grain  the  nails  should  be  driven  obliquely. 

HOUSING  OR  GROOVING  JOINT  (Fig.  I).— Using  a  try  square  make  two  knife-cuts 
across  the  side  to  be  grooved.  Carry  these  across  the  edges.  Set  the  marking  gauge 
to  the  required  depth  (usually  from  ^"  to  £")  and  mark  lines  on  each  edge  between  the 
knife-cuts.  With  tenon  saw  close  to  cut  line  and  on  waste  side  of  it  saw  down 
to  gauge  marks.  Finally  with  sharp  chisel,  and  working  from  both  edges,  cut  out  the 
waste  wood. 

* 

CROSS  HALVING  JOINT  (Fig.  2).— Mark  out  width  of  material  with  cut  lines.  From 
face  side  gauge  centre  line  on  both  edges  between  cut  lines.  On  waste  side  of  lines  saw 
down  to  gauge  lines.  With  sharp  chisel  and  working  from  both  edges  cut  out  waste 
wood.  Fit  pieces  together  and  glue  or  screw  if  required. 

ANGLE  HALVING  JOINT  (Fig.  3). — Prepare  each  piece  by  squaring  a  line  round  the 
end  equal  to  the  width  of  the  material.  Cut  the  shoulder  lines  with  a  knife.  Gauge 
the  centre  lines.  With  piece  held  in  vice,  saw  on  the  waste  side  of  the  gauge  line  down 
to  level  of  shoulder.  Saw  shoulder  with  timber  held  on  bench  hook,  then  fit  together. 

TEE  HALVING  JOINT  (Fig.  3).— Cut  one  piece  as  for  Cross  Halving  and  other  as  for 
Angle  Halving  joint. 

TtE  BRIDLE  JOINT  (Fig.  4). — Using  a  mortice  gauge  mark  out  both  pieces  as  in  Fig.  4 
The  distance  between  the  teeth  of  the  gauge  should  be  one-third  thickness  of  material. 
A  single-tooth  marking  gauge  can  be  used  if  one  set  of  lines  is  made  from  the  face  side 
and  then  the  stock  of  the  gauge  is  moved  forward  the  required  distance  for  the  second 
set.  Remove  waste  with  saw  and  chisel  (Fig.  4)  and  fit  together. 

ANGLE  BRIDLE  JOINT  (Fig.  5).— This  joint  is  also  known  as  an  Open  Slot  Mortice 
and  Tenon  joint.  As  will  be  seen  from  Figs.  4  and  5  both  pieces  are  set  out  similar  to 
one  of  the  pieces  in  the  previous  joint.  Both  are  sawn  vertically,  one  inside  and  the 
other  outside  the  gauge  lines. 

(Continued  on  Page  12) 


I/BUTT  JOINT 

A 


GROOVING  OR  HOUSING  JOINT 

Fial 


CR055  HALVING 


5AWM 


PARTLY   CHI5ELLED 


JOINT  COMPLLTLD  AW05LPARATID 


TEE   HALVING      FlG  3  ANGLE   HALVIttG 


JOINT  COMPLETED 


TCE  BRIDLE          Fl<i  4: 


ANGLE  BRIDLt       Fit 


I  I 


JOINT  S— continued 

MORTICE  AND  TENON  JOINT  (Fig.  I).— Notice  similarity  of  setting  out  with  that 
of  Tee  Bridle  joint.  Mark  out  round  the  mortice  piece  with  pencil  lines,  and  the  tenon 
with  cut  lines.  Set  a  mortice  gauge  to  the  width  of  the  chisel  nearest  to  one-third  the 
thickness  of  the  material.  Gauge  both  pieces  from  the  face  sides,  then  cut  the  mortice  from 
both  sides  of  material.  Start  in  the  centre  and  cut  back  towards  each  end  of  the  mortice. 
Cut  wedge-ways  about  two-thirds  depth  of  mortice.  When  cutting  the  tenon  make 
the  vertical  cuts  first,  close  up  to  the  gauge  lines  and  on  the  waste-wood  side  of  them. 
Cut  both  shoulders.  From  a  piece  of  hardwood  the  same  thickness  as  the  tenon  cut 
two  wedges  a  little  longer  than  the  tenon.  Fit  the  joint  and  glue  both  mortice  and  tenon. 
Glue  wedges  and  drive  in  with  blows  on  each  alternately. 

CORNER  OR  HAUNCHED  MORTICE  AND  TENON  JOINT  (Fig.  2).— In  this  joint 
the  tenon  does  not  go  through  the  morticed  piece  ;  mortice  and  tenon  are  cut  to 
about  three-quarters  of  width  of  material.  The  tenon  is  cut  two-thirds  the  width  of 
the  material  but  has  a  shoulder  or  "  haunch  "  left  on  it  of  \H  or  |"  depending  upon  the 
size  of  the  material.  Cut  the  tenon  as  described  above,  then  make  the  haunch.  Fit 
and  glue  joint,  then  put  screw  through  as  in  Fig.  2. 

DOVETAIL  HALVING  JOINT  (Fig.  3).— Mark  out  "  tail  "  on  end  of  one  piece  as 
in  Fig.  3.  The  angle  suggested  is  1:7.  See  small  sketch,  Fig.  3.  This  angle  varies 
between  I  :  6  for  soft  wood  and  I  :  8  for  hardwood.  First  make  the  vertical  saw-cuts 
and  then  the  shoulder  cuts.  Place  tail  in  position  on  second  piece  and  mark  with  pencil. 
Cut  and  remove  waste  as  with  Cross  Halving  joint. 

COMMON  DOVETAIL  JOINT  (Fig.  4).— Square  ends  of  pieces  and  mark  out  "  pins." 
The  amount  of  waste  should  equal  the  amount  of  timber  left  in  the  pins.  Cut  and  clean 
out  the  waste  and,  with  an  awl  or  fine  pencil,  mark  out  the  sockets.  When  sawing  the 
sockets  it  is  essential  to  keep  the  saw  close  to  the  line  and  on  the  waste-wood  side  of  it. 
A  sketch  is  given  for  making  a  handy  template  in  wood  or  brass  for  the  quick  marking 
out  of  dovetails. 

TONGUE  AND  GROOVE  JOINT  (Fig.  5).— Mark  out  both  pieces  with  cut  lines  as 
in  Fig.  5.  Saw,  chisel,  and  fit  joint  and  when  completed  glue  and  nail  together. 

MITRE  JOINTS  (Fig.  6). — There  are  two  easy  ways  of  cutting  this  joint.  The  first 
is  by  drawing  squares  on  the  ends  of  the  pieces  and  cutting  along  the  diagonals.  This 
method  is  often  adopted  where  the  pieces  to  be  mitred  are  flat.  The  second  is  by  means 
of  a  mitre  block.  This  consists  of  a  piece  of  2"  x  2"  section  material  screwed  along  a 
base-board  5"  or  6"  wide  and  having  cuts  at  angles  of  45°  across  the  top  and  carried 
vertically  down  to  the  base  (Fig.  6).  Flat  or  moulded  pieces  may  be  cut  with  this  block. 


I  2 


MORTICE  &  TENOtt 


COMPLETED 


PARTLY  SAWN 
AND  CHISELLED^ 


CORHtR  hORTlCt 
AKP  TENON 


PARTLY 

AND  CHISELLED 


5AWN  AMD 
CHISELLED 


COMPLETED 


DOVETAIL  HALVING  Fl«i  5 


\WA5TE 
iANGLC 
1:7 

L^ 


COMPLETED 


MARKED 
OUT 


COMMON  DOVETAIL  fk<l  4- 
WA3TE 


MARKED 

OUT  FROM  DOVETAIL 


HI 

TOMCUt  &  GROOVE    TlG 


GAUGE  UML 

8 


V^jT      ~ 


I  3 


PEG-TRAIN     SET 

This  little  train  set  is  both  pleasing  and  satisfying  to  small  children.  The  set 
is  articulated  and,  although  few  examples  of  trucks  are  illustrated,  many  more 
will  suggest  themselves.  Two  points  are  of  special  importance  :  the  coupling 
should  be  of  $"  plywood  and  should  fit  easily  over  the  peg,  and  it  should  be 
let  in  and  screwed  under  the  body  of  the  truck  (Figs.  2  and  3). 

ENGINE  (Fig.  I). — Prepare  a  base  8"  x  1\n  x  £*  and  cut  one  end  as  in  Fig.  6.  Bore 
a  f  hole  and  glue  in  a  T  length  of  |*  dowel.  Shape  the  boiler  2|*  x  l|*  x  IJ*.  A 
chamfer  f*  x  f  Is  put  on  the  long  top  edges  (Fig.  I).  Now  bore  |"  and  £"  holes  in  top 
for  stack  and  valve  and  glue  in  short  lengths  of  dowel.  Make  the  cab  1\"  x  2\"  x  l£* 
and  round-off  the  top.  For  the  tender  cut  a  piece  2|"  x  2V  X  !£*•  Clean  up  all  pieces 
and  glue  and  screw  to  base. 

COAL  TRUCK  (Fig.  2).— Prepare  piece  6|*  x  2£"  x  \°.  Cut  one  end  as  Fig.  6  and 
on  the  other  end  glue  and  screw  a  plywood  coupling  as  Fig.  7.  For  the  body  cut  two 
sides  5f  x  \\"  X  TV  and  two  ends  2"  x  \\"  X  ^*.  Cut  tongue  and  groove  joints 
(Fig.  2).  Glue  and  pin  together.  Clean  up  base  and  body  and  screw  together. 

MEAT  VAN  (Fig.  3).— Prepare  a  base  as  coal  truck,  and  a  block  5|"  x  2$'  x  \%°.  Put 
a  |*  x  I*  chamfer  on  long  top  edges  of  block,  then  screw  to  base. 

"TANKER  "  (Fig.  4). — The  base  is  similar  to  that  of  coal  truck  or  meat  van.  From 
a  block  5|*  x  \¥  X  \¥  make  a  cylinder  with  a  flat  side  (Fig.  4).  Clean  up  and  glue 
and  screw  to  base,  then  glue  and  pin  four  wedge-shaped  pieces  to  base,  as  in  Fig.  4. 

TIMBER  WAGGON  (Fig.  5). — Cut  base  as  above,  then  shape  two  bracket  pieces.  One 
of  these  should  be  grooved  to  take  the  link  piece  as  in  Fig.  9.  Glue  and  pin  them  to  the 
base. 

FINISH. — As  the  train  is  for  very  young  children,  a  simple  painted  finish  in  bright 
colours,  with  no  attempt  at  realism,  is  suggested. 


I  4 


\  /'--*—--- ---*>---- 


FIG  6 


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N<O 

I 

El 

III;      .'! 

>y      Ty  ) 

i           !  ! 

f          ?      ^ 

] 

Fl&8       COUPLING 

i  ^^RACKE 

FiGP^H 

L  1 

I 
1 

1 

7 

no  7 

_   /i? 

I  5 


SIMPLE     RAILWAY     STATION 

Like  the  peg-train  set  with  which  it  is  intended  to  be  used  this  station  is 
strong  and  yet  pleasing  in  appearance.  It  is  constructed  in  six  pieces — a  plat- 
form, two  block  "  buildings  "  with  seat  and  partition  between,  and  the 
all-over  roof. 

CONSTRUCTION 

PLATFORM. — Plane  up  a  piece  of  deal  to  a  finished  size  of  I'  6"  x  6"  x  I".  Saw  or 
plane  off  the  wedge-shaped  pieces  to  form  the  ramps  at  the  ends  (Fig.  2).  Bore  and 
countersink  eight  ^*  holes  for  the  screws  to  fasten  "  buildings  "  to  base  (Fig.  2). 

BUILDINGS. — These  are  exactly  alike  and  are  3"  x  3"  x  l£".  Cut  two  grooves  in 
one  end  of  each  to  hold  the  seat  and  partition  (Fig.  3).  The  horizontal  groove  is  \"  wide, 
£*  deep  and  J*  from  the  bottom  edge  of  the  block.  The  vertical  groove  runs  centrally 
from  the  top  edge  to  the  horizontal  groove  and  is  also  \"  wide  and  \"  deep.  Cut  the 
horizontal  groove  first. 

SEAT  AND  PARTITION.— The  seat  is  3£*  long  by  3"  wide  and  J"  thick.  The  par- 
tition is  3£*  x  I*  x  y. 

ROOF. — This  is  I'  0"  x  6"  x  £".  Along  the  centre  line  bore  and  countersink  four 
&"  holes  for  screws  to  fasten  roof  to  "  buildings  "  (Figs.  I  and  4). 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  platform  ready  for  painting  and  then  seat  and  partition. 
Screw  or  nail  seat  to  partition.  Clean  "  buildings  "  and  glue  and  screw  one  in  position. 
Glue  grooves  and  end  of  seat  section,  hold  seat  in  groove  and  place  second  "  building  " 
in  position,  then  screw  down.  Lastly  clean  up  roof,  glue  tops  of  "  buildings  "  and 
partition,  and  screw  roof  down. 

FINISH  by  painting.  Realism  may  be  added  by  pasting  suitable  small  advertisement 
labels  from  bottles  and  boxes  to  the  "  buildings." 


16 


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TICS  2 


17 


SMALL     BOATS 

Of  these  three  small  boats,  two,  the  barge  and  the  sailing  boat,  will  float  in  the 
bath  or  on  a  pond,  or  like  the  water-line  model  tanker  they  may  be  pushed  or 
pulled  about  the  floor. 

CONSTRUCTION 

TANKER  (Figs.  I  and  4).— Set  out  the  hull  on  a  piece  of  deal  7|*  x  2*  x  f*  and  with 
tenon  saw  and  chisel  cut  bows  and  stern  (Fig.  2).  Next  cut  pieces  for  forecastle  and  for 
deck  house  and  poop.  Glue  and  pin  both  pieces  to  hull  (Fig.  4).  Finish  off  curves  with 
file  and  glasspaper.  From  a  piece  If  x  I"  X  ^s"  shape  bridge  (Fig.  3),  then  glue  and 
pin  it  to  deck  and  "  deck  house."  Fix  a  f  long  piece  of  £"  "  quarter  round  "  to  deck 
and  forecastle  (Figs.  I  and  2).  Through  "  deck  house  "  bore  a  f*  hole  for  funnel,  which 
is  2*  long.  Glue  funnel  in  place.  Drill  §*  hole  in  forecastle  and  insert  a  3^"  length  of 
^*  rod  as  mast.  Paint  tanker  realistically. 

BARGE  (Figs.  5,  6,  7).— From  Figs.  6  and  7  set  out  on  a  piece  of  deal  7£*  x  2i*  x  £* 
the  shape  of  the  bottom,  then  from  a  block  1\"  x  2£*  x  1 5"  shape  the  bow  piece  (Fig.  7). 
Note  that  the  2£*  measurement  for  this  piece  should  be  along  the  grain  of  the  wood. 
Glue  and  pin  the  bow  piece  to  the  bottom,  then  finish  the  curves  with  file  and  glasspaper. 
Cut  two  sides  S±"  x  l£"  X  f  and  an  end  piece  If"  x  1^"  x  £".  Glue  and  pin  the  sides 
into  the  notches  of  the  bow  piece  and  to  the  bottom.  Similarly  fix  end  piece  between 
sides  and  to  bottom.  Cut  out  rudder  and  fix  to  stern.  Bore  a  |"  hole  in  bow  piece 
and  glue  in  a  short  length  of  dowel  as  a  towing  pole.  Clean  up  and  paint  inside  and  out 
with  oil  paint  to  make  barge  watertight. 

SAILING  BOAT  (Fig.  8).— Prepare  the  hull  from  a  piece  of  deal  3£"  x  If  x  &"• 
From  plan  mark  out  the  bows,  then  with  tenon  saw,  chisel  and  file,  cut  and  finish  curves. 
Set  out  and  sink  cockpit  £*  deep.  Bore  a  g*  hole  for  the  mast,  which  is  If  long.  Clean 
up,  glue  in  mast,  and  paint. 


I  8 


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FIG  8 


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I  9 


SMALL     LORRIES 

The  drawings  on  the  opposite  page  show  a  fleet  of  small  army  lorries  consisting 
of  :  (a)  a  "  general  purposes  "  lorry,  (b)  a  mobile  searchlight,  (c)  an  ambulance, 
(d)  a  mobile  gun,  (e)  a  lorry  for  barrage  balloon  cylinders,  and  (f)  a  break-down 
lorry.  All  the  bonnets,  cabs  and  bases  are  similar,  with  the  exception  cf 
base  (e). 

CONSTRUCTION 
BASES.— Prepare  five,  each  6*  x  2*  x  I". 

BONNETS.— Plane  up  a  piece  of  deal  12*  x  l£*  x  |".  Square  one  end.  Measure 
l£*  from  this  end  and  square  a  line  round  the  piece.  Taper  the  end  on  three  sides  as 
shown  in  Fig.  5.  Cut  off  along  the  squared  line  and  clean  up  both  sawn  ends.  Repeat 
for  other  bonnet  pieces. 

CABS. — Plane  up  a  piece  of  deal  12*  x  l£*  X  |".  Bevel  one  side  and  slightly  round-off 
the  two  corners  to  the  section  shown  in  Fig.  7.  Finish  one  end  square  and  measure  from 
it  If*,  then  square  a  line  round,  saw  off,  and  clean  up  both  sawn  ends.  Glue  and  pin 
bonnet  and  cab  to  base  as  in  Fig.  I. 

COMPLETE  individual  lorries  according  to  the  following  directions  and  the  sketches 
at  the  top  of  the  opposite  page  : — 

(a)  To  the  lorry  base  glue  and  pin  a  piece  3£"  x  |*  X  -&*  along  each  side  and  another 
if  *  X  f  X  iV  across  the  end,  as  in  Fig.  I. 

(b)  Construct  as  (a)  omitting  end  piece,  then  screw  the  I*  dowel  rod  searchlight 
(Fig.  3)  to  the  base. 

(c)  Base,  bonnet  and  cab  as  in  (a)  and  (b).     The  body  is  a  block  of  wood  3|*  x  l|"  X  If 
rounded  on  the  long  top  edges  and  glued  and  pinned  to  the  base. 

(d)  This  is  completed  by  the  addition  of  the  gun  (Fig.  4). 

(e)  For  the  base  see  Fig.  2.     "  Vs  "  made  by  two  saw-cuts  are  added.     Two  cylinder 
supports — see  Fig.  2  (inset) — should  be  glued  to  the  base.     The  cylinders  are 
short  lengths  of  f"  dowel  rod  glued  to  one  another  and  to  the  supports. 

(f)  This  is  similar  to  (b)  with  the  substitution  of  a  crane  block — see  Fig.  6 — for  the 
searchlight. 

FINISH.—"  Camouflage  "  painting  is  the  most  suitable  finish. 


20 


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2  I 


BRICKS 

Bricks  are  among  the  most  popular  of  all  children's  toys.  Suggestions  for  the 
construction  of  two  kinds  are  given.  Fig.  I  shows  bricks  9"  x  4£"  x  3",  i.e., 
approximately  the  size  of  those  used  in  general  building,  while  Fig.  4  shows 
"telescopic  "  bricks.  The  first  set  may  also  be  made  to  serve  the  purpose 
of  a  simple  jig-saw  by  the  addition  of  a  picture. 

CONSTRUCTION   OF   BUILDING    BRICKS 

PREPARE. — (I)  Two  pieces  of  plywood  to  a  finished  size  of  9*  x  2^"  for  the  sides. 
Note  that  the  width  of  these  pieces — 2^" — is  approximate  only  and  should  be  adjusted 
so  that,  together  with  the  pieces  used  for  top  and  bottom,  the  finished  brick  is  3"  thick. 

(2)  Two  pieces  9"  x  4£"  for  the  top  and  bottom.     These  may  be  of  stout  card  if 
necessary. 

(3)  Two  pieces  of  deal  or  thick  plywood  4"  x  2£"  x  A*  for  the  ends.     Note  that 
these  measurements  also  must  be  adjusted  according  to  the  thickness  of  the  material 
used  ;    the  end  of  the  finished  brick  should  measure  4£"  x  3". 

It  is  most  essential  that  all  pieces  of  these  bricks  be  cut  and  finished  square. 

Glue  and  nail  the  side  pieces  to  the  ends,  test  the  resulting  open  box  for  squareness, 
then  glue  and  nail  down  the  top  and  bottom.  When  the  glue  is  set,  clean  and  paint 
the  bricks.  Half  bricks  should  be  constructed  in  similar  manner  but  finished  4£"  x  4^"  x  3" 

TO  ADD  JIG-SAW  PICTURE.— Build  wall  as  in  Fig.  I  but  flat  on  bench  or  floor.  Tie 
string  round  the  whole  to  hold  the  bricks  together.  Glue  the  back  of  the  picture,  using 
fairly  thin  glue,  place  in  desired  position  on  bricks  and,  with  a  clean  cloth,  rub  picture 
flat.  Finally  with  a  razor  blade  or  very  sharp  knife  carefully  cut  the  picture  along  the 
joints  of  the  bricks,  then  take  off  the  string  and  rub  down  the  edges  of  the  picture  on 
each  brick. 

CONSTRUCTION   OF  TELESCOPIC   BRICKS 

These  bricks  are  made  to  fit  inside  each  other  as  in  Fig.  4. 

To  construct  largest  brick  :  From  &"  plywood  cut  two  pieces  9"  x  8HT,  tw°  pieces 
8f*  x  8H",  and  a  piece  9*  x  9*.  Glue  and  nail  together  as  with  the  building  bricks. 
To  construct  smaller  bricks  reduce  the  dimensions  of  each  by  I"  all  round. 

Paint  each  box  with  a  separate  colour. 


22 


ACCORDING' 
TO 

THICKMES5 
OF  MATERIAL 


ISOMETRIC  VIEW 
Of  LARGE  BRICK 
WITH  OPEN  EMD 
DOWNWARDS  AMD 
DIMEM5IOrO 
FOR  USE  WITH 
%  IN.  PLYWOOD 


23 


SIMPLE     SENSE-  TRAINING      APPARATUS 

On  the  opposite  page  are  illustrated  four  examples  of  sense-training  apparatus, 
described  below.  All  may  be  made  more  advanced  by  the  addition  of  more 
pegs  or  "  shapes." 

CONSTRUCTION 


5" 
8    • 


HAMMER  PEGS  (Fig.  I). — Prepare  three  pieces  of  hardwood,  one  7£"  x  4" 
and  two  6"  x  4"  x  |*.  Draw  a  line  parallel  to,  and  I"  away  from,  each  long  side  of  the 
larger  piece  and  three  more  parallel  to  the  short  sides,  one  If  from  each  end  and  one 
across  the  middle.  Where  the  lines  cross  bore  six  clean  holes  of  \"  diameter.  Across 
the  middle  of  each  small  piece  cut  a  groove  |"  wide  and  %"  deep.  Clean  up  three  pieces 
and  glue  and  nail  together,  as  Fig  I. 

TO  MAKE  PEGS  round  off  a  piece  of  hardwood  I'  1 1"  X  A*  X  A*  so  that  it  is  just 
too  large  to  enter  the  holes.  Cut  off  six  3^"  lengths.  At  each  end  of  each  peg  make 
a  saw-cut  If  long,  the  cuts  being  at  right  angles  to  each  other.  Slightly  bevel  the  end 
of  each  peg  for  easy  entry. 

THE  MALLET  is  shaped  from  a  piece  of  hardwood  1\"  x  l£*  x  Ig"  reduced  on  its 
inner  face  to  If  long  and  rounded  slightly  from  end  to  end  of  the  outer  face.  The 


diameter  handle  is  glued,  or  glued  and  wedged,  into  the  head. 


PEG  SHAPES.— The  base  is  9"  x  4£"  x  %"  with  top  edges  slightly  rounded.  The 
three  pegs  are  2£"  lengths  of  £"  dowel  glued  into  holes  in  the  base.  Cut  four  squares  from 
i"  plywood  with  sides  of  I",  I*",  2",  2£",  four  circles  with  diameters  of  I",  |i",  2",  1\\ 
and  four  equilateral  triangles  with  !§",  1^*,  l|",  and  2£*  sides.  Bore  iV  hole  through 
each  circle,  square  and  triangle,  then  clean  up  and  paint  in  different  colours. 

INSET. — The  base  is  5£*  x  3"  x  |"  deal.  Cut  piece  of  \"  plywood  5"  x  1\" .  Set  out 
rectangle,  square  and  circle  on  plywood  as  in  Fig.  3,  then  cut  out  with  fine  fretsaw. 
Glue  and  pin  plywood  to  base.  Bore  \*  hole  through  each  piece  and  glue  in  a  |"  length 
of  \"  dowel.  Clean  and  paint. 

POSTING  BOX.— Make  Dox  with  sides  6"  x  3*  x  |"  and  ends  4J"  x  3*  x  §",  using 
any  suitable  joint.  On  bottom  pin  and  glue  piece  of  A"  plywood.  Cut  similar  piece 
for  lid  and  mark  and  saw  out  the  five  shapes  shown  in  Fig.  4.  On  underside  of  lid  glue 
four  strips  of  £"  square  beading  to  hold  the  lid  in  position.  Make  five  hardwood  prisms 
2"  long  of  sections  similar  to  shapes  of  holes  and  so  that  they  will  easily  pass  through 
openings.  Paint  in  bright  colours. 


24 


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25 


FLAT     TROLLEY 

This  trolley  provides  an  ideal  means  of  transport,  either  of  children  or  of 
other  toys.  It  is  light,  low,  easy  to  turn  and  pull  around,  and  yet  it  is  strong 
and  capable  of  withstanding  very  rough  treatment. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRONT,  SIDES  AND  BACK. — Prepare  four  pieces  of  deal  to  the  measurements 
shown  in  Fig.  I.  The  front  is  narrowed  to  allow  the  slats  forming  the  bottom  to  "  run 
on  "  (Fig.  I).  Mark  out  and  cut  the  joints.  Three  suggestions  for  joints  are  shown  at 
the  foot  of  the  opposite  page  ;  the  one  illustrated  in  Fig.  I  is  the  butt  joint.  Note  that 
the  length  of  the  ends  must  be  increased  if  either  of  the  other  joints  is  used.  Fit  joints 
together  "  dry."  Set  out  in  the  back  piece  the  mortices  for  the  ends  of  the  slats,  as 
in  Fig.  3.  Cut  the  mortices  to  a  depth  of  £*  (Fig.  3).  Through  both  long  sides  bore 
and  countersink  four  TV  screw  holes,  each  |"  from  the  bottom  edge,  for  screwing  to 
slats  (Fig.  I).  Clean  up  arrises  from  top  edges  of  all  four  pieces.  Glue  up  square 
and  flat. 

BOTTOM.— Prepare  five  slats  I'  I  Of*  x  2*  x  f*.  At  one  end  of  each  cut  a  bare- 
faced tenon  5"  long,  as  in  Figs.  2  and  5.  Shape  the  other  end  of  each  piece,  as  in  Fig.  I 
(plan).  Bore  and  countersink  two  &"  holes  in  each  piece  3f*  from  the  shaped  ends  for 
screwing  to  front  rail. 

BATTENS. — These  are  screwed  under  the  slats  to  give  extra  support.  On  them  are 
fastened  the  castors.  Prepare  two  I'  2"  x  2*  x  f.  Through  each  bore  nine  ^"  screw 
holes,  two  at  each  end  and  one  under  each  slat,  as  in  Fig.  4. 

ASSEMBLY. — When  the  glued-up  framing  has  set,  fit  the  slats,  clean  up,  glue  and 
screw  In  position.  Bore  a  f*  hole  in  each  outside  slat  for  a  tow  rope  (Fig.  I).  Screw 
on  the  battens  and  fix  castors. 


FINISH. — Clean  up  outside,  paint  and  attach  rope. 


26 


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27 


CRADLE 


For  a  small  girl  this  is  an  ever-popular  toy,  being  sufficiently  long  to  accom- 
modate most  dolls.  The  headboard  is  14"  x  1  1  5"  X  |",  and  the  footboard 
8£"  X  ll£"  x  |".  They  are  dovetailed  into  the  bottom  which  is  \6\"  x  7"  x  |". 
On  each  side  four  rails  I6£"  x  I"  X  |"  are  dovetailed  into  head  and  foot. 
Two  rockers  1  l"  X  2"  x  l"  are  screwed  to  the  bottom. 


CONSTRUCTION 

HEAD.  —  Prepare  headboard,  square  both  ends,  then  mark  out  and  cut  to  shape  as  in 
Fig.  I  (a). 

FOOT.  —  Mark  out  and  cut  foot  similar  in  shape  and  size  to  lower  portion  of  head 
(Fig.  I  (b)). 

BOTTOM.  —  Cut  bottom  to  length  and  square  ends  as  Fig.  2.  At  both  ends  of  this 
mark  out  and  cut  "  tails  "  for  a  common  dovetail  joint,  then  mark  sockets  for  this  in 
head  and  foot  and  cut  out  (Fig.  4).  Fit  joints  together  "  dry." 

RAILS.  —  Prepare  eight  side  rails  all  exactly  the  same  length  as  the  bottom.  Cut 
"  tail  "  of  a  dovetail  halving  joint  at  both  ends  of  each  piece  (Fig.  5).  Carefully  mark 
out  the  sockets  for  each  tail  on  edges  of  head  and  foot.  There  should  be  a  space  of 
I"  between  each  rail.  Number  all  joints  so  as  to  ensure  quick  and  correct  fitting  when 
gluing  up.  Cut  and  fit  the  joints. 

ROCKERS.  —  The  two  rockers  should  now  be  shaped,  using  bow  saw  and  spokeshave, 
or  chisel  and  spokeshave.  Clean  up  the  rockers,  and  if  desired  paint  them. 

ASSEMBLY.  —  Clean  all  inside  faces  and  glue  up  commencing  with  head,  foot  and 
bottom.  When  gluing  and  fitting  the  rails  begin  with  the  top  and  work  downwards. 

Square  the  cradle  and  allow  the  glue  to  set. 

When  the  joints  are  "  set  "  carefully  clean  up  the  outside  of  the  cradle.  Fix  rockers 
to  bottom  with  screws,  first  boring  suitable  holes. 

FINISH.—  Paint  in  bright  colours. 


28 


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PROMT  ELEVATION 


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JOINTS  OF  RAIL 
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AMD  Of 

HEAD  $  fOOT  WITH 
BOTTOM 


29 


COTS 

The  sketches  opposite  show  two  cots,  one  with  fixed  sides  and  the  other  with 
one  fixed  and  one  "drop  "  side.  The  first  has  solid  ends  1 1"  x  7^"  x  |" 
into  which  is  housed  the  bottom  I'  2£"  x  7£"  x  £".  Two  frames 
I'  2f  x  6f  x  |"  are  screwed  to  bottom  and  ends.  The  constructional 
details  which  follow  are  for  the  cot  with  the  drop  side. 

CONSTRUCTION 
ENDS.— Shape  two  pieces  10*  x  9*  x  £*  as  in  Fig.  I. 

LEGS. — Prepare  four  each  I  \"  x  I*  X  |*.  Round  off  top  ends  as  in  sketches.  Clean 
up  end  boards  and  legs,  then  glue  and  screw  legs  in  position  (Fig.  I). 

BOTTOM  (Fig.  2).— Cut  to  finished  size  of  I'  8*  x  Q"  X  \\  notch  and  fit  corners 
to  legs  (Fig.  4). 

SIDES  (Figs.  I  and  3).— Four  rails  I'  8*  x  I*  X  f.  and  four  stiles  7"  x  I*  x  f  are 
required.  Set  out  and  cut  bridle  joints  at  ends  of  these,  fit  "  dry  "  and  number.  Mark 
out,  on  inside  edges  of  top  and  bottom  rails,  centres  of  holes  for  dowel-rod  bars.  Bore 
%*  diameter  holes  |"  deep.  Cut  fourteen  pieces  of  £"  dowel  rod  each  5f  long.  Clean 
up  rails,  stiles  and  rods,  then  glue  up  frames,  checking  for  squareness  and  "  winding." 
Through  each  joint  screw  one  ^*  No.  5  screw.  Clean  off  surplus  glue  and  put  aside  to  set. 

METAL  GUIDES.— Cut  two  pieces  of  i"  or  A"  diameter  metal  rod  I0£"  long.  Bend 
and  make  flat  the  ends  and  drill  |"  holes  for  screws — see  Fig.  6  and  inset  on  plan  (Fig.  I). 
Screw  guides  to  legs  and  ensure  good  fit,  then  cut  small  notches  in  corners  of  bottom 
to  clear  guides  (Fig.  2).  Remove  guides  until  final  assembly. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  the  various  parts.  Glue  and  screw  ends  to  bottom,  using 
I*  No.  8  screws.  Screw  fixed  side  to  ends  and  bottom  (Fig.  5).  Screw  four  screw-eyes 
into  drop  side,  two  on  top  rail  and  two  on  bottom  rail  below  cot  bottom.  Slide  metal 
guides  through  these  and  re-screw  to  legs.  To  hold  up  side,  screw  two  small  hooks 
and  eyes  on  top  rail  and  ends  (Fig.  I). 

FINISH. — Paint,  polish,  or  stain  and  varnish  cot  as  desired. 


30 


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END     AMD 
BOTTOM 


OP  BOTTOM 
HOTOO  AMD   EMD 
READY  TOR 
5CREWING   TO 
BOTTOM 


DRESSERS 

To  all  girls  the  acquisition  of  a  dresser  is  a  great  event.  Two  dressers  are 
illustrated  at  the  top  of  the  opposite  page.  Both  are  well  proportioned  and 
compact,  and  in  both  there  is  an  absence  of  hinges  and  awkward  corners. 
Constructional  details  are  given  of  the  more  difficult  one  only. 

CONSTRUCTION 

UPPER.  SECTION. — Cut  two  side  pieces  I'  0"  x  3"  x  |".  At  one  end  of  each  make 
a  tongue  £*  X  ?"  ;  at  the  other  end  mark  and  cut  dovetails,  and  then  cut  the  two  grooves 
|"  x  %"  for  shelves  (Fig.  3).  Now  prepare  the  bottom  I'  4^"  x  3"  x  |".  Mark  out 
dovetail  sockets  from  the  sides,  cut  and  fit  "  dry."  Prepare  the  top  I'  3"  x  3"  x  |". 
On  both  ends  of  this  mak;  a  tongue  \"  x  \" .  Cut  two  shelves  I'  3|"  x  3"  x  |". 
To  form  corner  pieces  plough  a  groove  \"  x  \",  as  in  Fig.  2,  on  each  of  two  sides  of  a  piece 
I'  6*  x  I*  X  I*.  Cut  off  two  portions  of  this,  each  3"  long  and  fit  "  dry  "  to  sides 
and  top.  The  remainder  of  this  corner  piece  will  be  required  later  for  the  lower  section. 
With  a  "  round,"  or  a  gouge,  shape  inside  curves  of  corner  pieces,  leaving  outside 
square  for  ease  of  gluing  up.  Clean  up  inside  faces,  then  glue  and  nail  parts  together, 
checking  for  squareness.  Complete  by  adding  plywood  back  I'  4^"  x  I'  Of"  glued  and 
pinned,  then  set  aside  to  set.  In  Fig.  6  are  illustrated  alternative  joints  for  the  top 
corners. 

LOWER  SECTION.— Prepare  top  I'  4£"  x  6"  x  |*.  bottom  I'  6'  x  6"  x  |",  two 
sides  8f  x  6"  x  |",  and  one  shelf  I'  5£"  x  4"  x  |*.  Cut  stopped  grooves  in  sides  for 
shelf.  Fit  together  "  dry  "  as  top  section.  Plough  two  grooves  \"  wide  and  ^"  deep 
in  bottom,  and  two  more  \"  wide  and  f  deep  in  top  (Fig.  4).  The  deeper  grooves  are 
to  allow  for  insertion  of  doors  after  carcase  has  been  glued  up.  Clean  up  and  glue  together, 
adding  plywood  back  as  in  upper  section.  Make  a  plinth  I'  5|*  x  5f§"  out  of  I*  x  I* 
material. 

Clean  up  both  sections,  round  the  corners  and  screw  together.     Screw  on  plinth. 

Cut  two  pieces  of  \"  plywood  8|"  x  8f  for  doors.  Bore  two  f  holes  or  fit  two 
small  handles,  then  insert  into  grooves. 

FINISH  as  desired. 


32 


ALTERNATIVE    METHODS 
OF  CONSTRUCTION 
FOft    CORNERS 


_       ^     DETAIL  OF 
JFlti2     CORNER 


3IDE    OF  UPPER  SECTIOM 


^^—^'—^- 

i 

-*-3*-"—  ^ 

114" 

f 

^-3J'^— 

r— 

ll*" 

— 

33 


FUN     BOAT 

The  Fun  Boat  is  a  very  popular  toy  with  children.  Not  only  can  they  "  swing 
high  and  swing  low  "  without  fear  of  overturning,  but  they  can  also  make  the 
boat  spin  around.  The  slats  across  the  bottom  prevent  any  trapping  of  toes 
as  the  boat  rocks.  The  hand-rail  in  the  centre  is  so  placed  that  it  gives  good 
gripping  and  pulling  exercise. 

CONSTRUCTION 

ROCKERS. — On  two  pieces  of  sound  board — preferably  hardwood — 3'  0"  x  1 1*  X  |* 
mark  out  the  curve  of  the  rocker  (Fig.  I)  and  set  out  on  each  piece  the  four  mortices 
for  the  seats  and  two  for  the  bottom  rails  (Figs.  I  and  6).  Working  from  both  sides  cut 
out  the  mortices.  To  cut  the  cu  rve  fasten  both  sides  together  with  the  mortices,  register!  ng 
so  that  both  pieces  are  exactly  alike. 

SEATS. — These  are  12*  x  7"  x  f*  and  two  are  required.  Mark  out  and  cut  tenons 
as  in  Fig.  2. 

BOTTOM  RAILS.— Two  are  required  each  12*  x  l£*  x  I".  Mark  out  and  cut  tenons 
as  in  Fig.  6. 

SLATS.— Cut  four  each  I'   10*  x  2*  x  |*. 

HAND-RAIL.— This  is  I'   I*  x    l£*  X  |*.     It  should  be  rounded  on  both  edges. 

HAND-RAIL  SUPPORTS.— These  are  I'  2£*  x  If*  X  f*  and  are  cut  as  shown  in 
Fig.  4. 

ASSEMBLY. — Fit  boat  together  "  dry  "  to  ensure  correct  fit  of  all  parts — then  take 
apart.  Cut  "  wedge-ways  "  in^  the  tenons,  ease  outside  of  mortices  to  allow  for  spread 
caused  by  insertion  of  tenons,  then  clean  up  all  parts  except  outsides  of  rockers.  Glue 
tenons  and  mortices  and  then  assemble  rockers,  seats,  and  bottom  rails,  driving  in  the 
wedges  and  checking  the  boat  for  squareness. 

When  glue  has  set  hard,  drill  a  hole  at  the  end  of  each  slat  and  screw  in  position 
(Figs.  3,  5  and  7). 

Glue  and  screw  the  hand-rail  supports  to  the  boat  (Fig.  5). 

Finally  clean  up  where  necessary,  removing  all  sharp  edges,  and  finish  as  desired. 


34 


FIG  2 


FIG  3 


JOINT  OF 
ROCKER 
AND 
SEAT 


JOINT  OF 
ROCKER 
AMD 
RAIL 


5AW  KERF 
FOR  WEDGE 


12" 
10" 


hAMDRAIL 
SUPPORT 
FIXED  IM 
PLACE 


FIG  6     BOTTOM  RAIL 


FIG  7 


35 


DUCK     BOAT 

The  Duck  Boat  is  made  for  a  child  to  sit  in  and  rock  itself.  If  well  constructed 
and  finished  it  will  be  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  children  for  many  years. 
It  is  2'  4"  long,  I'  I*  wide  and  I'  7"  high,  and  may  be  made  of  hard  or  soft  wood. 

CONSTRUCTION 

ROCKERS. — Fasten  together,  by  means  of  two  l£"  oval  nails,  two  boards  2'  4"x  I0"xf. 
From  Fig.  I  mark  out  on  one  face  the  curve,  and  on  both  faces  the  four  mortices.  Work- 
ing from  both  sides,  cut  the  mortices,  then  with  bow  saw  and  spokeshave  cut  and  finish 
the  curve.  Separate  the  rockers. 

SEAT. — This  is  I'  I*  X  8*  x  f.  Square  both  ends  and  mark  out  and  cut  the  tenons 
as  in  Fig.  2.  Fit  seat  to  rockers  and  round-off  front  edge. 

HEADBOARD.— When  finished  this  is  I'  Of"  x  5"  x  |".  Square  the  ends  and  cut 
half-lap  joints  for  fitting  to  rockers  (Figs.  3  and  5).  Mark  out  and  cut  the  mortice  for 
the  head  (Fig.  3).  Fit  "  dry  "  to  rockers. 

BOTTOM  RAILS.— Prepare  two  I'  I"  x  l£"  x  f .  Cut  \"  tenons  on  both  ends  of 
each  and  fit  to  the  rockers. 

HEAD. — From  a  piece  of  deal  9"  x  8£"  x  2"  cut  out  the  head  (Fig.  I)  with  bow  saw 
and  finish  with  spokeshave,  file  and  glasspaper.  Cut  and  fit  the  tenon  at  the  base  to 
the  headboard  (Fig.  6).  Bore  a  f*  hole  in  the  head,  as  Fig.  I,  for  a  piece  off  round  rod. 
Clean  up  the  headboard  and  glue  and  screw  head  in  position  (Fig.  6).  Glue  in  the  rod. 

TAIL  PIECE.— This  is  1 \\"  x  2i"  x  l£".  Shape  as  in  Fig.  4,  then  clean  up  and  screw 
to  seat. 

BATTENS.— Prepare  four  I'  5*  x  2"  x  |*. 

ASSEMBLY. — Cut  diagonal  wedgeways  in  ends  of  all  tenons.  Cut  also  eight  wedges 
to  fit  them.  Glue  both  tenons  and  mortices.  Insert  tenons,  taking  care  that  rockers 
are  tight  up  to  shoulders.  Glue  wedges,  check  for  squareness,  then  drive  them  in. 
Screw  battens  in  place,  as  Fig.  I.  Screw  down  headboard,  clean  up  where  necessary, 
and  boat  is  ready  for  painting. 


36 


_i^ 

| 

ill 

1  .BATTEN.-, 

1 

J  \  J           / 

1      1 

TIT 

1             > 

_j 

I 

iiPlI 

MEAD  BOARD 
i 


SHOWING  JOINT 
BETWEEN  SIDE 
AND  HEADBOARD 


37 


FLYING     DUCK 

This  duck  has,  because  of  its  movement  and  the  "  click-clack  "  of  its  wings, 
proved  a  fascinating  toy  to  very  many  children.  As  the  duck  is  rocked  the 
wings  are  made  to  rise  and  fall  by  means  of  a  plunger  (Figs.  I  and  6). 
A  simple  duck  without  the  wings  is  illustrated  in  Plate  VII.  It  has  two 
bottom  rails  which  carry  footrests.  Otherwise  its  construction  is  as  set  out 
below.  The  head  shows  the  effect  of  greater  attention  to  shaping. 

CONSTRUCTION 

ROCKERS.— These  are  2'  2"  x  9i"  x  |".  Set  out  and  cut  the  £"  x  £"  tongue  on  top 
edge  of  each  (Fig.  2).  Now  "  pair  "  the  sides,  fix  together  with  "  G  "  clamps  or  panel 
pins,  and  set  out  curve,  wing  slots  and  mortices.  Cut  slots  and  mortices,  then  shape 
and  finish  curve. 

RAILS. — The  three  cross  rails  are  shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  back  and  plunger  rails  are 
each  2*  x  T  in  section  and  the  bottom  rail  2"  x  l£*.  Cut  the  three  and  fit  "  dry  "  to 
the  rockers.  Cut  wedgeways  in  back  and  plunger  rails  and  in  mortices  of  bottom  rail. 
Clean  up  rockers  and  rails,  then  glue  up  and  drive  in  the  wedges.  Carefully  check  for 
"  squareness  "  during  the  assembly. 

SEAT  (Fig.  4).— This  is  I'  8*  x  6"  x  |*  and  has  both  ends  square.  Plough  two 
grooves  £*  wide  and  J*  deep,  as  in  Fig.  4,  for  the  tongues  on  the  top  edges  of  the  rockers. 
Cut  the  mortice  for  the  head  (Fig.  7)  and  bore  four  &"  screw  holes  for  fixing  head  and 
tail.  Fit  seat  "  dry." 

WINGS  (Fig.  5).— From  two  pieces  of  \H  plywood  IQi*  x  8"  shape  the  wings.  Bore 
the  two  f*  holes  as  shown.  Groove  and  glue  on  to  each  a  piece  5*  x  2*  x  |"  (Fig.  5). 
Fasten  a  piece  of  strip  lead  to  each,  as  in  Fig.  I. 

HEAD. — Shape  the  head  as  Fig.  I  from  a  piece  of  deal  7"  x  8"  x  2*.  Cut  tenon  on 
base  (Fig.  7).  Fix  to  seat  board  with  screws  and  wedges. 

TAIL  (Fig.  7). — Shape  this  from  deal  4*  x  2£*  x  1 5",  and  screw  in  position. 

PLUNGER  (Fig.  6).— Cut  a  disc  1\"  diameter  and  \"  thick.  In  the  centre  bore  a 
\*  hole,  into  which  glue  and  wedge  a  6"  length  of  %"  dowel  rod. 

ASSEMBLY. — To  hold  wings  in  position,  bore  two  f  holes  in  the  top  edge  of  the 
rockers  and  across  the  wing  slots,  Fig.  I  (section).  These  holes  must  register  with  those 
in  the  wings,  which  should  be  elongated  to  allow  the  wings  freedom  to  rise  and  fall  (Fig.  5). 
Now  drop  the  plunger  in  position,  insert  the  wings  in  the  slots,  and  glue  and  tap  in  the 
dowels.  Glue  and  screw  down  the  seat  board  on  which  are  fixed  the  head  and  tail. 
Finally  clean  up  and  paint. 

38 


Fia«3 


WING  WITH  SECTION      ^ 

-Sf * 


FlG  6    PLUNGER 


fi&7 


••  T  I  S  H  Y 

"  Tlshy  "  has  been  included  because  it  shows  how  scrap  material  can  be  used 
to  good  effect.  In  this  case  an  old  "  bent-wood  "  chair  has  been  utilised  in  the 
construction  of  a  rocking  horse  :  the  legs  of  the  chair  are  adapted  as  the  four 
legs,  with  three  pieces  of  board  for  the  body. 

CONSTRUCTION 

LEGS. — From  an  old  "  bent-wood,"  or  similar  chair,  cut  four  legs  about  I'  4"  long. 
Through  the  top  of  each  bore  and  countersink  two  \"  screw  holes  (Figs.  I  and  2). 

BODY. — Prepare  two  pieces  ot  deal  I'  6"  x  3f  x  I".  Mark  out  and  cut  grooves  for 
legs  (Fig.  5),  making  the  width  of  the  grooves  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  legs  and  the 
depth  equal  to  one  half  of  the  diameter.  Fit  legs  and  number  joints.  Now  through 
sides  bore  and  countersink  six  \"  holes  as  in  Fig.  2.  These  are  for  screws  to  hold  head 
and  body  together  and  should  not  be  opposite  each  other  or  the  screws  may  foul  when 
inserted.  Round-off  corners.  On  one  end  of  centre  piece  shape  tail  (Fig.  4).  Glue 
and  screw  the  three  pieces  together  with  If  No.  10  screws.  Level-off  the  joints  and 
remove  the  sharp  edges. 

ROCKERS.— From  a  board  2'  6"  x  8*  x  I*  cut  two  rockers  (Fig.  3).  Pin  rockers 
together  and  spokeshave  to  finished  curve.  Before  separating  rockers  mark  out  and 
cut  joints.  Two  suggestions  for  joints  are  given  in  Fig.  7.  Cut  joints  at  ends  of  legs, 
fit  and  number  to  rockers. 

HEAD. — By  means  of  squares  set  out  the  head  (Fig.  6)  on  a  piece  of  wood  1 1"  x  6"  x  I ". 
Cut  and  finish.  Through  head  bore  a  f*  hole  for  a  bar  (Figs.  6  and  9).  Glue  and  screw 
head  in  position. 

SADDLE  PIECE. — Shape  this  as  in  Fig.  8.  Bore  three  &"  screw  holes  as  indicated 
and  screw  to  body. 

ASSEMBLY. — Remove  varnish  or  paint  from  tops  ot  legs  to  allow  glue  to  adhere. 
Glue  and  screw  legs  into  grooves,  taking  care  to  see  that  bottom  joints  fit  into  or  over 
rockers.  Glue  and  screw  rockers  to  legs.  Clean  off  surplus  glue  and  allow  finished 
horse  plenty  of  time  to  "  set."  Clean  up  and  paint  as  desired. 


40 


DCPrH3HALF  DIAfl.  OF 

LEG. 


T.— 5 


4  I 


SMALL     ROCKING     HORSE 

This  small  rocking  horse  is  very  pleasing  both  in  appearance  and  as  a  toy. 
Designed  for  use  by  very  young  children,  it  loses  some  of  its  appeal  if  the 
suggested  dimensions  are  increased. 

CONSTRUCTION 

SEAT  (Fig.  2). — Make  from  one  piece  of  deal  I'  3*  x  1\"  X  \\" .  Square  both  ends 
and  from  Figs.  I  and  2  set  out  the  mortices.  Note  that  the  mortices  are  not  square 
through  the  seat  :  they  are  splayed  at  the  same  angle  as  the  legs  (Fig.  I).  Work- 
ing from  both  sides,  cut  mortices.  Enlarge  for  wedges  on  top  side  (Fig.  4).  When 
mortices  are  cut  shape  the  seat  (Fig.  2)  with  bow  saw  and  spokeshaves. 

ROCKERS  (Fig.  5).— Cut  two  from  a  board  2'  8"  x  7'  x  f . 

LEGS  (Fig.  3). — These  are  8£"  x  2"  x  2*.  While  still  "  in  the  square  "  cut  tenons 
at  one  end  and  bridle  joints  at  the  other.  The  thick  line  in  Fig.  6  shows  the  correct 
angle  for  the  shoulder.  Taper  the  legs  while  still  "  square  "  from  2"  x  2*  at  the  bottom 
to  1^"  x  1 5*  at  the  top.  Fit  legs  to  seat  and  number  the  joints.  The  construction  of  a 
plywood  template  of  the  angle  between  seat  and  leg  to  ensure  that  all  legs  are  at  the 
same  angle  to  the  seat  will  prove  well  worth  while.  Fit  legs  to  rockers,  then  round 
them  off  with  the  plane,  finishing  with  glasspaper. 

HEAD  (Fig.  7). — Set  out  this  by  "  squares  "  on  a  piece  ot  deal  10'  x  7"  x  2".  It 
may  be  left  rectangular  in  section,  or  it  may  be  simply  modelled,  as  in  Plate  III.  Cut, 
finish  and  fit  the  head  "  dry  "  to  the  seat,  even  putting  in  both  screws.  When  satisfied 
as  to  the  fit,  remove  the  head 

TAIL  (Fig.  8). — Shape  this  from  piece  of  deal. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  all  parts,  then  glue  and  wedge  legs  to  seat,  carefully  checking 
angles  between  legs  and  seat.  When  glue  has  set,  glue  and  screw  on  the  head  and  tail. 

FINISH. — If  well  made,  a  good  finish  for  this  horse  is  to  leave  it  "  in  the  white  "  and 
wax  polish  it.  Painting  in  two  suitable  colours  is  also  recommended. 


42 


LEGS— 5QUARE 
ROUriD   >  TAPERED 


CORRECT  AMGLE. 
OF  3HOULDER 


RADIU5  OF, 
SEAT  CURVE  C 
T^S 


FIG  6 


\    RADIUS  OF  MORTICE 

S  ROCKERCURV5  ENLARGED 

Viv^_/    ^';(,  FOR_WTPCE5> 

Fic^jJ^^iT 

28" =~^  £/  FM  4 


43 


DOLL'S     HOUSE 

The  construction  of  the  Doll's  House  is  described  on  this  page  and  overleaf, 
and  illustrated  on  the  pages  opposite.  Simple  and  easy  to  construct,  the  house 
is  2'  5"  long,  2'  I*  wide,  and  2'  5"  high.  All  parts  except  the  windows  are 
|"  thick.  The  dimensions  may  easily  be  varied  if  a  larger  or  smaller  house  is 
required.  Realism  may  be  added  by  painting  to  imitate  brickwork,  stone  or 
slate,  or  a  roughcast  finish  may  be  obtained  by  giving  the  walls  a  coating  of 
glue,  sprinkling  with  sand  or  fine  gravel  while  still  wet,  and  painting  white. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BOTTOM  BOARD.— This  is  the  ground  floor  space  piece  and  is  2'  5"  x  2'  Of.  Mark 
out  from  Fig.  3  and  cut  to  shape  either  from  plywood  or  from  several  boards  jointed 
to  give  necessary  width. 

FIRST  FLOOR. — Cut  this  as  Fig.  4.  Remove  the  well  of  the  stairs  by  boring  out  the 
centre  piece  and  finishing  with  a  chisel,  or  bore  holes  in  the  corners  and  cut  round  the 
well  with  a  keyhole  saw  and  finish  with  a  chisel. 

FRONT  (Fig.  5). — Prepare  this  in  one  piece  2'  5"  x  I'  6"  (jointed).  Mark  out  and 
cut  both  window  openings  in  similar  manner  to  the  stair  well,  and  also  the  circular 
opening  for  the  front  porch. 

BACK  (Fig.  6). — The  back  consists  of  a  strip  2'  5"  x  I £*  which  forms  the  portion  of 
the  wall  immediately  under  the  roof,  and  two  larger  pieces,  one  I'  2f&*  x  I'  4%"  and 
the  other  I'  2^*  x  I'  4^",  which  will  be  made  to  swing  open.  Cut  the  three  window 
openings  and  lastly  the  door  opening. 

ENDS  (Fig.  7). — Cut  two,  2'  4"  x  I'  8",  with  one  end  square  and  the  other  triangular. 
A  half  elevation  is  shown  in  Fig.  7.  Cut  a  groove  |"  wide  and  &"  deep  across  each 
piece  9"  from  the  square  end. 

GROUND  FLOOR  PARTITIONS.— There  are  three  partitions,  "  A,"  "  B  "  and  "  C" 
"A  "Is  I'  7y  x  9"  with  one  opening  6"  x  21".  Partition  "  B  "  is  I'  If  x  9*  with  a  piece 
6"  x  2y  removed  from  one  corner.  The  third  partition  "  C  "  is  also  I'  If  x  9*  with 
an  opening  in  it  6"  x  4*. 

FIRST  FLOOR  PARTITIONS.— There  are  two  of  these,  "  B  "  and  "  D."  "  B  "  is 
I'  If  x  9*  and  "  D  "  is  I'  7f  x  9".  Cut  the  openings  as  illustrated. 

(Continued  on  Page  46) 


44 


45 


DOLL'S     HOUS  E— continued 

FLAT  WINDOWS. — In  each  window  opening,  including  the  French  window  at  the 
back,  fit  a  piece  of  &"  plywood.  On  this  mark  out  sills,  rails  and  bars  (see  sketches) 
and  cut  them  out  with  a  fretsaw.  Glue  these  in  position  as  in  Fig.  8. 

BOW  WINDOW  (Fig.  9).— This  is  built  up  on  semi-circular  rings  of  plywood 
T^*  thick,  faced  with  stout  cardboard.  First  prepare  two  straight  strips  of  wood 
I'  6"  x  I"  X  3*.  From  Fig.  9  (section)  mark  out  and  cut  in  each  strip  the  six  grooves 
^g*  wide  and  §"  deep  and  the  half-lap  joint  at  each  end.  Now  from  1^*  plywood  cut 
six  semi-circular  rings  5"  outside  diameter  and  \H  wide  (see  sketch).  These  are  for  sills, 
transoms  and  top  rails.  Cut  also  four  semi-circular  rings,  4f  outside  diameter  and 
£*  wide,  and  two  full  semi-circles  of  4^"  diameter  to  form  top  and  bottom.  Glue  the 
four  smaller  semi-circular  pieces  to  four  of  the  larger  ones — see  Fig.  9  (section).  To 
assemble  the  window  glue  and  pin  the  strips  to  the  top  and  bottom  pieces,  then  glue 
In  the  four  double  half  rings.  Cut  strips  of  cardboard  l|",  3f  and  2|"  wide  and  glue 
and  pin  them  round  the  curves  (see  section).  Glue  in  place  the  two  transom  pieces 
running  across  each  window.  Finally  cut  and  glue  in  place  the  six  vertical  pieces,  which 
are  of  \"  square  section.  Glue  and  screw  completed  window  to  front  wall  (Fig.  5,  Page  45). 

STAIRCASE  (Fig.  10).— Cut  two  sides  or  strings,  I'  I*  x  \y,  from  £"  plywood,  and 
twelve  blocks  If  long  off  square  section.  Glue  and  pin  the  blocks  between  the  strings 
as  in  Fig.  10. 

ROOF.— Cut  one  piece  2'  6"  x  I'  3^"  and  one  2'  6"  x  I'  3^"  with  square  ends. 
CHIMNEY  STACK. — Prepare  this  to  dimensions  shown  In  sketch. 

FRONT  DOOR.— Fit  and  hinge  a  piece  of  \"  plywood  6*  x  A"  to  partition  "  C."  Cut 
lines  on  the  face  of  the  door  as  inset  in  ground  floor  plan  (Page  45). 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  and  nail  parts  together  in  following  order  :  Ends  on  bottom, 
first  floor  in  grooves,  partition  "  A,"  partition  "  B,"  staircase,  partition  "  C,"  front,  the 
two  first  floor  partitions,  then  the  narrow  strip  above  opening  portions  of  back.  Now 
hinge  the  two  back  pieces  to  the  ends  and  glue  and  nail  on  the  roof,  afterwards  gluing 
and  nailing  the  chimney  stack  to  it.  Punch  in  all  nails  and  the  house  is  ready  for  painting 
and  equipping. 


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DOLL'S     HOUSE:     DINING-ROOM     SUITE 

This  and  the  two  pages  of  drawings  which  follow  deal  with  furniture  for  the 
equipping  of  the  Doll's  House.  In  all  the  designs  the  attempt  has  been  made 
to  combine  realism,  simplicity  and  strength  with  a  pleasing  appearance.  The 
primary  aim,  however,  has  been  to  provide  furniture  which  will  make  any 
small  girl  happy. 

CONSTRUCTION 

DINING  TABLE.— This  is  5*  long,  1\"  wide  and  2|*  high.  It  should  be  %  thick 
throughout  and  may  be  of  either  hard  or  soft  wood.  Prepare  the  top  5"  x  1\"  with 
both  ends  square,  and  then  the  two  top  bearers  4£"  x  ^".  Bevel  the  bottom  corners 
as  in  Fig.  I.  Now  cut  the  one  stretcher  3f  x  £".  For  the  legs  prepare  four  pieces 
1\"  X  £*.  At  one  end  of  each  cut  a  slot  &'  x  ^"  (Fig.  2).  Each  foot  is  built  up  of  four 
pieces,  two  2*  x  \"  and  two  £*  x  \".  Glue  up  the  foot  and,  when  set,  bevel  the  corners 
as  in  Fig.  2.  Clean  up  all  parts. 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  and  pin  top  bearers  to  legs,  then  legs  to  feet.  Glue  and  pin  top 
to  bearers  and  finally  stretcher  to  feet.  Great  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  all  parts 
"  square." 

DINING  CHAIR  (Fig.  3,  A,  B,  C,  D).— Prepare  a  block  (A)  2f  x  l£*  x  \¥  with 
both  ends  square.  Mark  out  and  cut  away  seat  portion  (B).  With  a  bow  saw  carefully 
cut  away  waste  between  legs  (C).  Pare  underside  of  seat  flat  with  sharp  chisel,  then 
glue  and  pin  plywood  (D)  in  place  to  strengthen  short  grain  of  seat.  Round-off  the  seat, 
back  and  the  front  legs,  and  cover  with  thin  leather  as  sketch  at  head  of  page. 

SIDEBOARD.— This  is  4*  long,  2±"  high  and  |i"  deep.  It  is  made  of  £*  thick  material 
throughout.  Prepare  top  and  bottom  3|*  x  I %",  and  two  sides  1\"  x  I %",  then  cut  the 
joints  as  in  Fig.  4.  Cut  two  doors  2"  x  l|",  and  round-off  one  long  edge  of  each.  Insert 
two  pivots  in  each  (Fig.  6).  Panel  or  veneer  pins  may  be  used  for  these.  The  centre 
panel  is  2"  x  I*  with  three  horizontal  V  cuts  to  represent  drawers  (Fig.  5).  Add  the 
door  and  drawer  handles,  which  are  from  §"  x  §"  section  material  and  glued  on.  Two 
suggestions  for  handles  are  shown,  one  in  Fig.  4  and  one  in  sketch  at  top  of  page.  Drill 
holes  in  top  and  bottom  for  the  pivots.  Clean  up  all  parts. 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  and  pin  sides  to  bottom.  Place  doors  and  centre  panel  in  position, 
then  glue  and  pin  sides  to  top  and  top  to  centre  pane!.  Cut,  fit  and  fix  a  piece  3f  x  2" 
into  the  back.  Glue  two  pieces  If  x  \"  X  \"  to  bottom  for  feet.  Glue  a  small  strip 
along  joint  where  centre  panel  meets  bottom,  and  allow  to  project  slightly  as  a  door  stop. 


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DOLL'S     HOUSE:     BEDROOM     SUITE 

All  the  material  used  In  this  suite,  as  in  the  previous  one,  is  |*  thick. 

CONSTRUCTION 

WARDROBE  (Fig.  I).— This  stands  5f*  high,  is  4"  wide  and  |i"  deep,  and  is  mounted 
on  four  feet  |*  x  £'  X  %". 

Prepare  two  sides,  or  "  cheeks,"  5£T  X  1 5*  and  cut  halving  joints  on  the  ends.  Prepare 
also  two  pieces  3g"  x  1 5*  for  top  and  bottom.  Clean  up  inside  faces,  then  glue  and  pin 
parts  together,  carefully  checking  for  squareness.  Make  level  the  front  and  back  and 
glue  and  pin  on  to  the  back  a  piece  5^"  x  4".  Two  side  panels  should  now  be  cut 
5%*  x  I £*  and  glued  and  pinned  to  the  front  as  in  sketch.  Prepare  a  door  which  is 
5^*  x  1 5*  and  fit  this  between  the  side  panels.  Hang  the  door  by  a  pair  of  small  "  butt" 
hinges  on  its  right  edge.  Glue  in  place  a  strip  of  ^*  x  §"  section  as  a  handle.  Round-off 
the  top  edges  of  the  wardrobe,  then  clean  up  all  round,  and  glue  and  pin  in  place  the 
four  feet  shown  in  the  inset,  Fig.  I. 

DRESSING  TABLE.— This  is  kidney-shaped,  4"  long,  2"  deep,  and  2i"  high.  From  a 
piece  4*  x  2*  mark  out  and  cut  the  top.  Make  notches  for  the  mirror  supports.  The 
two  uprights  are  2|"  x  I \*.  Cut  two  grooves  s"  wide  and  ^Q"  deep  for  the  shelf,  which 
is  2£*  x  l£".  Clean  up  these  parts,  then  glue  and  pin  them  together,  checking  carefully 
for  squareness.  For  the  mirror  cut  a  piece  2g"  x  1 5*.  This  piece  should  be  covered 
with  a  smooth  piece  of  tin  foil.  Two  supports  2^*  x  \"  should  now  be  shaped  as  shown 
and  a  small  hole  drilled  in  each  to  take  the  pivots  of  the  mirror,  for  which  two  small 
panel  pins  may  be  used.  Glue  supports  in  position  with  mirror  mounted  and  finally 
fold  a  piece  of  suitable  material  round  front  of  table. 

BED. — The  bed  is  5f  long  and  4*  wide.  From  a  piece  2^"  long  (measured  along  the 
grain)  and  4*  wide  mark  out  the  headboard.  Cut  a  groove  for  the  bottom  §"  wide  and 
TV  deep,  then  cut  and  finish  the  curve.  Repeat  for  the  footboard,  which  is  If*  long 
and  4"  wide.  Cut  the  bottom  5%"  X  4"  with  both  ends  square.  Prepare  two  side  bearers 
3f*  x  |".  Clean  up  all  parts,  glue  and  pin  headboard  and  footboard  to  bottom,  then 
glue  and  pin  bearers  to  bottom,  headboard  and  footboard.  Shape  four  feet  similar  to 
those  of  wardrobe  and  glue  and  pin  in  position  as  in  sketch. 


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DOLL'S     HOUSE:     KITCHEN     FURNITURE 

Apart  from  the  legs  of  the  table  this  furniture  is  made  throughout  of  material 
g*  thick.  When  finished  it  should  be  painted  in  suitable  colours,  e.g.,  green 
and  white,  or  blue  and  white. 

CONSTRUCTION 

CHAIRS  (Fig.  I). — Legs,  backs  and  arms  of  these  are  of  g"  cane.  Cut  bottoms  from 
g"  plywood  to  dimensions  shown.  Drill  g"  holes  for  legs  and  enlarge  those  of  the  arm 
chair  to  take  two  pieces  of  cane.  The  arms  and  front  legs  of  this  chair  are  in  one  piece. 
In  both  chairs  the  back  legs  and  back  are  in  one  piece,  the  legs  being  bent  back  after 
insertion  through  the  seat.  The  front  legs  are  If  long,  legs  plus  arms  3£",  and  back  legs 
and  back  4".  Cut  cane  to  length  and  glue  in  position,  taking  care  to  keep  legs  level. 

DRESSER  (Fig.  2).— This  is  5"  wide,  6"  high,  and   |i"  deep. 

Top  Sect/on. — Cut  four  pieces  4f  x  f  X  g"  for  top,  bottom  and  shelves.  Make 
two  sides  3^"  x  f  as  illustrated  with  halving  joints  at  the  ends  and  grooves  g"  wide  and 
Is*  deep,  for  the  shelves.  Clean  up  the  inside  faces,  glue  and  pin  parts  together,  checking 
carefully  for  squareness,  then  fasten  on  the  g*  plywood  back  which  is  4^"  x  3£". 

Bottom  Sect/on. — Cut  three  pieces  4g*  x  If  for  top,  bottom  and  division  piece, 
and  also  two  pieces  2^*  x  If  for  sides.  Cut  a  halving  joint  at  the  top  end  and  two 
grooves  ^"  wide  and  ^"  deep  for  the  division  and  the  bottom.  The  two  doors  l£"  high 
and  2aV  wide  are  pivoted  as  in  the  sideboard  (Page  49).  Note  that  these  doors 
and  the  "  drawer  "  fronts  are  set  back  ^e"  from  the  front  face  of  the  dresser. 
The  "  drawer  "  fronts  are  in  one  piece  4f"  x  £".  Now  make  a  vertical  division  piece 
1 5*  X  f  and  a  plinth  piece  4|"  x  g".  Bore  holes  for  the  door  pivots,  clean  up  all 
parts,  and  fasten  on  the  handles,  which  are  g"  square  section,  I*  long  for  doors  and  l£" 
for  drawers. 

To  Assemble. — Begin  by  gluing  and  pinning  the  sides  to  the  bottom,  then  insert 
the  doors  and  fix  the  horizontal  division.  Glue  and  pin  the  vertical  division  in  place 
followed  by  the  "  drawer  "  front.  Now  glue  and  pin  down  the  top  and  glue  the  plinth 
in  place.  Complete  this  section  by  fastening  on  the  back,  which  is  g"  plywood  and 
5"  x  2^*.  Finally  clean  up  both  sections,  round-off  the  top  corners,  and  glue  and  pin 
both  sections  together. 

TABLE  (Fig.  3).— Cut  top  5*  x  3£",  two  side  rails  4f*  x  f ,  and  two  end  rails  2|*  x  |" 
Shape  four  legs  2f  long  and  £*  x  \"  at  the  top  tapering,  on  the  insides  only,  to 
iV  X  iV  at  tne  bottom.  Clean  up  all  parts,  then  glue  and  pin  end  rails  to  legs,  followed 
by  side  rails.  Lastly  glue  down  top. 


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MARIONETTE     THEATRE 

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This  marionette  theatre  is  built  up  of  six  pieces  of  framing — front  wall  with 
proscenium  opening,  back  frame  supporting  the  bridge,  and  four  side  frames 
which  fold  inwards  so  that  the  entire  theatre  can  easily  be  transported  or 
packed  in  a  very  small  space.  There  is  ample  room  for  lights  and  scenery 
and  for  hanging  puppets  in  convenient  places.  The  front  framing  may  be 
covered  with  plywood  or  stout  card  and  painted,  it  may  be  panelled,  or  it 
may  be  covered  with  pleated  linen,  hessian  or  crash. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRONT  FRAMING  (Fig.  3). — First  decide  on  joint  to  be  used  (i.e.,  whether  as  at 
"A  "  or  "  B  ").  For  the  purpose  of  this  description  we  will  assume  a  half-lap  joint 
as  at  "  B  "  is  to  be  used.  From  deal  prepare  to  the  following  finished  sizes  :  One  top 
and  one  middle  rail  5'  0"  x  2*  x  f*,  two  stiles  and  two  muntins  3'  6"  x  2"  x  f,  and 
two  bottom  rails  I'  3"  x  2*  x  f. 

Mark  out  joints,  as  at  "  B  "  and  "  C."  The  middle  rail  is  in  one  piece  with  a  lapped 
halving  joint  where  it  crosses  the  muntin.  Cut  out  and  fit  joints  "  dry."  Clean  inside 
edges  and  glue  up,  keeping  frame  square  and  flat.  Leave  to  set. 

BACK  FRAME  (Fig.  7).— Prepare  to  finished  sizes— top  rail  5'  0*  x  3"  x  f"  ;  bottom 
rail  5'  0*  x  2*  x  f  ;  two  stiles  2'  3"  x  2"  x  f"  and  one  muntin  2'  0"  x  2"  x  f .  Set 
out,  cut,  fit,  clean  inner  faces  and  glue  up,  again  taking  care  to  keep  frame  square  and 
flat.  Put  aside  to  set. 

SIDE  FRAMES  (Fig.  4). — An  enlarged  view  of  one  frame  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Four 
are  to  be  made.  Cut  and  prepare  eight  stiles  2'  3"  x  1 5"  x  f  and  eight  rails 
Mi*  x  l^*  x  |".  Mark  out  halving  joints  as  before,  cut,  fit,  clean  and  glue  up  square 
and  flat.  Allow  glue  to  set,  then  clean  off. 

BRIDGE  (Fig.  8).— Cut  and  finish  this  5'  0"  x  4"  x  |".  Bore  five  TV  screw  holes, 
countersink,  then  round  the  top  edges. 

ASSEMBLY. — When  glue  of  frames  is  hard,  clean  off  sides  and  outer  faces. 

Procure  six  pairs  of  li"  or  2"  "  butt "  hinges. 

Fit  hinges  on  centre  joint  of  ends  first  (Fig.  4),  then  remove  hinges  as  side  frames 
are  easier  to  handle  one  at  a  time.  Screw  hinges  on  face  of  internal  angle  between 
front  and  side  frames  (Fig.  6).  Test  swing  on  these  hinges.  Leave  these  hinges  in 
place.  Repeat  at  angle  of  back  frame  and  rear  half  of  side  frame,  then  replace  centre 
hinges.  Fix  pair  of  cabin  hooks  across  corner  (Fig.  6)  to  keep  framing  rigid  when  theatre 
is  in  use.  Finally  screw  bridge  piece  in  position. 

CURTAINS.— For  these  see  Page  124. 

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GLOVE-PUPPET    THEATRE 

This  puppet  theatre  is  both  a  piece  of  valuable  educational  apparatus  and  also 
a  great  source  of  interest  and  amusement  to  children.  It  consists  of  front  and 
side  framing,  two  wings,  a  stage  and  a  spacing  bar.  To  the  front  framing 
(Fig.  I)  are  hinged  the  two  side  frames  (Fig.  2)  which  may  be  folded  inwards 
(Fig.  4)  when  the  theatre  is  not  in  use.  The  stage  (Fig.  3)  is  a  loose  board 
notched  to  drop  on  the  middle  rail.  Around  its  front  edge  is  tacked  a  pleated 
linen,  hessian  or  crash  curtain,  which  is  repeated  on  the  top  rail.  One  of  the 
two  wings  is  shown  in  Fig.  5.  The  spacing  bar  (Figs.  4  and  6)  rests  on  the  side 
frames  and  has  two  metal  clips  (Fig.  7(a))  to  hold  the  frames  open.  Two 
brackets  (Fig.  7(b))  are  attached  to  the  side  frames  to  hold  back-drops,  etc. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRONT  FRAMING  (Fig.  I).— Decide  which  joints  shall  be  used  (see  Page  55),  then 
cut  and  prepare  two  stiles  2'  6*  x  3£*  x  f,  bottom  and  top  rails  3'  0"  x  3*  x  |", 
middle  rail  3'  0"  x  If*  X  I",  and  a  muntin  I'  |i"  x  If  x  |".  Fit  the  joints  "  dry," 
number  them,  then  clean  the  edges  and  glue  up,  keeping  frame  square  and  flat. 

SIDE  FRAMES  (Fig.  2). — Two  are  required.  Construction  is  similar  to  that  of  front 
framing.  To  each  glue  and  pin,  or  screw,  a  piece  of  plywood  or  stout  card  2'  4*  x  I'  6". 

STAGE  (Fig.  3).— Prepare  from  deal  board  2'   10"  x  4i*  x  |". 

WINGS  (Fig.  5). — Cut  from  stout  plywood.  Along  one  edge  glue  and  pin  a  deal 
strip  I'  2i*  x  l£*  X  £*.  Into  this  screw  two  small  hooks  (Fig.  5). 

SPACING  BAR  (Fig.  6).— This  is  a  piece  of  batten  3'  |i"  x  \±"  x  |*.  Fix  two  metal 
clips  (Fig.  7(a))  in  position  to  hold  the  wings  open. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  front  and  side  frames.  Fasten  each  side  frame  to  the  front 
with  two  2"  "butt"  hinges.  Fix  two  small  screw  eyes  |"  within  either  side  of  the  proscenium 
opening  to  take  the  hooks  of  the  wings  (Fig.  4)  and  two  brackets  (Fig.  7(b))  on  top  of 
back  edges  of  side  frames  to  support  back-drops — see  Fig.  2. 

FINISH  by  painting  woodwork  which  is  seen,  and  fixing  pleated  material  across  top 
and  across  front  of  stage. 


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57 


MODEL    THEATRE 

This  theatre  is  not  merely  a  toy  ;  it  is  a  useful  basic  model  both  for  the 
designer  of  stage  settings  and  the  model  theatre  enthusiast.  Constructed  of 
deal  and  made  to  fold  up,  the  theatre  is  3'  6"  wide,  2'  4"  high,  and  I'  6|"  deep. 
Both  side  frames  (Fig.  2)  are  hinged  to  the  front  framing  (Figs.  I  and  3),  and 
the  box  tiers  (Fig.  4)  swing  on  hooks  and  eyes  and  fold  inwards  (Fig.  3)  when 
the  theatre  is  not  in  use.  The  stage  (Fig.  5)  is  loose  and  has  grooves  along 
which  slide  the  figures. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRONT  FRAMING  (Fig.  I).— Prepare  four  pieces  2' 4"  x  If  x  f  for  stiles  and  muntins, 
two  pieces  3'  6"  x  If  x  f  for  top  and  middle  rails,  and  two  bottom  rails  8f  x  If*  x  f. 
From  the  elevation  (Fig.  I)  and  from  Fig.  6  mark  out  halving  joints.  Cut  the  joints,  fit 
together  "  dry,"  and  number.  Take  the  framing  apart,  bore  and  countersink  screwholes 
and  clean  all  inside  edges.  Glue  up  framing,  keeping  it  flat  and  square  and  put  aside  to 
"set." 

SIDE  FRAMING  (Fig.  2).— Prepare  two  long  stiles  2'  0'  x  If  X  f ,  two  short  stiles 
I'  9*  x  If  X  f ,  and  four  rails  I'  6"  x  If  X  f .  Further  constructional  details  are  as 
for  front  framing.  The  short  lengths  of  dowel  on  top  edge  are  for  hanging  back-drops, 
etc.,  if  desired. 

BOX  TIERS  (Fig.  4).— Cut  two  pieces  of  &"  plywood  2'  4"  x  I'  0".  From  Fig.  4 
mark  out  box  openings  and  cut  out  with  fret  or  key-hole  saw.  Clean  up  openings. 
Glue  and  pin  a  stiffening  piece  2'  4*  x  If  x  |"  along  one  long  edge  of  each  piece  (Fig.  4). 
The  "  Boxes  "  are  formed  by  gluing  a  cardboard  box  over  the  back  of  each  opening. 

STAGE  (Figs.  3,  5  and  8).— This  is  3'  6"  x  I'  6f  x  f .  A  number  of  pieces  of  board 
may  be  cut  and  jointed  to  this  size  or,  for  a  lighter  stage,  a  frame  may  be  made  and  covered 
with  a  sheet  of  plywood  or  strong  card.  Above  this  glue  and  pin  twelve  slats  3'  6"  x 
I*  X  5"  (Figs.  5  and  8),  completing  the  stage  with  one  wide  slat  in  front.  Cut  away 
corners  as  in  Fig.  5.  Suggestions  for  sliding  the  figures,  etc.,  along  the  grooves  thus 
formed  are  illustrated  in  Fig.  7. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  front  and  side  framings.  Screw  in  four  eyes  for  box  tiers. 
Bore  and  glue  short  lengths  of  dowels  in  top  of  side  frames.  Attach  side  frames  by  hinges 
— see  Fig.  3.  Clean  up  box  tiers.  Screw  in  four  hooks  to  register  with  eyes.  Fit 
framing  to  stage.  Paint  and  decorate. 


58 


FIG  3 

5TAGE  WITH  3LAT5  REMOVED 


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59 


SCENERY  FOR  MODEL  THEATRE 

No  dimensions  are  given  in  these  drawings,  which  are  intended  to  be  sugges- 
tive of  types  of  scenery,  etc.,  suitable  for  use  with  the  model  theatre  or  with 
the  puppet  and  marionette  theatres  on  Pages  54  and  56. 

CONSTRUCTION 

DOORWAYS  (Figs.  I  and  2). — The  doorway  in  Fig.  I  is  to  be  made  of  cardboard. 
Paint  the  door  on  the  face  side  as  suggested  and  cut  along  one  side  and  across  the  top. 
Fold  along  broken  line.  A  paper  clip  may  be  used  as  a  fastener.  A  plywood  door  is 
illustrated  in  Fig.  2.  Here  the  door  is  cut  out  completely  and  hung  on  very  small  metal, 
leather  or  linen  hinges.  Paint  front  as  shown. 

WINDOWS  (Figs.  3  and  4). — Mark  out  front  and  cut  three  sides  of  frame  as  in  Fig.  3. 
Fold  back  to  form  hinge.  Cut  out  spaces  between  bars  as  different  lighting  effects  can 
be  obtained  by  pasting  thin  coloured  paper  on  backs  of  windows.  A  window  in  which 
the  bottom  sash  slides  up  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  4.  This  may  be  of  plywood  or  card.  First 
cut  out  window  opening  represented  by  broken  line.  Over  this  opening  at  the  back 
glue  a  piece  similar  to  the  shaded  portion  (Fig.  4).  This  forms  the  upper  sash,  and  the 
projecting  portions  down  each  side  guide  and  hold  in  place  the  lower  sash.  Cut  a  frame 
and  sill  piece,  fitting  in  similar  manner  over  the  front  of  the  opening.  Cut  out  and  insert 
the  lower  sash,  then  glue  the  front  fitting  in  place.  The  glued-on  front  and  back  portions 
then  form  guides  between  which  the  lower  sash  may  be  raised  or  lowered. 

FIREPLACES  (Figs.  5  and  6). — The  first  of  these  may  be  in  card.  Paint  the  fireplace  on 
the  face.  Cut  an  opening  at  back  of  grate  and  paste  red  or  yellow  paper  over  it.  A  small 
light  behind  gives  the  effect  of  a  fire.  In  Fig.  6  is  shown  a  fireplace  in  which  small  blocks 
of  wood  are  glued  to  the  front  forming  pilasters,  mantelshelf  and  grate.  Coloured  paper 
again  will  suggest  fire. 

STAIRS  (Fig.  7). — The  setting  out,  in  one  piece  of  card,  of  treads  and  risers  is  shown 
in  Fig.  7.  The  card  is  to  be  folded  along  the  broken  lines.  In  the  other  sketch  is  a 
suggestion  for  handrail,  etc.,  and  spandrel  against  which  are  glued  the  treads  and  risers. 

BALUSTRADING  (Fig.  8). — This  is  cut  out  from  a  piece  of  stout  card  or  plywood 
which  is  glued  to  a  baseblock  for  support. 

TREE  (Fig.  9). — This,  or  any  similar  property,  may  be  made  and  supported  in  like 
manner  to  the  balustrading. 


60 


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6  I 


CASTLE 

Even  in  this  age  of  mechanization  castles  appeal  very  strongly  to  children. 
This  castle  has  a  drawbridge  which  rises  by  means  of  weights  and  is  held  down 
by  a  small  button  on  the  ramp.  The  keep,  walls  and  towers  are  all  separate 
units  and  may  be  stored  away  inside  the  base  when  the  castle  is  not  being  used. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BASE.— This  is  2'  0"  x  I'  2*  and  is  41"  deep.  Prepare  two  side  pieces  2'  0"  x  4*  x  £", 
and  two  end  pieces,  one  I'  2*  x  4"  x  5"  and  the  other  I'  2*  x  3£*  x  5".  Along  the 
three  4*  wide  pieces  plough  a  J*  X  %"  groove,  \"  from  the  face  edges.  Fix  the  base 
together  by  means  of  dovetail  joints  (Fig.  I).  The  bottom  consists  of  two  thicknesses  of 
%"  plywood.  Glue  and  pin  one  piece  to  the  sides  and  ends.  From  Fig.  S  mark  out  and 
pierce  the  second  piece.  This  piece  forms  grooves  and  recesses  to  hold  the  walls  and 
towers  in  place.  Glue  and  pin  it  in  position  on  the  first  piece.  Finally  cut  and  fit  a 
piece  of  \"  plywood  for  a  sliding  top. 

SQUARE  TOWERS.— From  TV  plywood  make  four  closed  "  boxes  "  4"  x  2"  x  2" 
with  butt  joints.  Before  gluing  the  "  boxes  "  together  cut  a  mortice  l£"  x  £"  through 
each  of  two  adjacent  sides  (Fig.  4).  The  battlements  are  first  cut  out  in  a  piece  of  \" 
plywood,  \\"  wide,  then  butt-jointed  round  the  top  of  the  tower  (Figs.  2  and  4).  The 
two  square  towers  at  the  back  of  the  keep  are  8^"  x  2"  x  2". 

ROUND  TOWERS.— These  are  made  by  rolling  pieces  of  thin  card,  8i"  wide  for  the 
keep  and  5"  wide  for  the  entrance,  round  a  wooden  cylinder  If"  diameter.  The  card 
is  glued  as  it  is  rolled  (Fig.  4).  When  the  cylinders  are  dry  cut  two  plywood  discs  for 
each  tower  If  diameter.  Glue  one  in  the  bottom  end  and  the  other  1^"  from  the  top 
end  (see  section,  Fig.  6).  As  in  the  square  towers  cut  mortices  for  wall  tenons  (Fig.  4). 
The  battlements  are  cylinders  of  card,  each  l£"  long,  large  enough  to  fit  over  the  end  of  a 
tower  and  notched  like  those  of  the  square  towers. 

WALLS. — The  walls  are  rectangular  pieces,  |"  thick  with  a  short  tenon  of  \"  plywood 
let  into  the  ends  (Figs.  2  and  3).  The  battlements  are  similar  to  those  of  the  square 
towers. 

KEEP. — Complete  this  with  the  roof  (Fig.  7)  and  entrance  steps  (see  section  and  plan, 
Fig.  I). 

ENTRANCE. — From  a  piece  of  deal  8£"  x  4"  x  |"  cut  out  the  given  shape  (Fig.  6). 
The  towers  are  fixed  to  the  gateway  by  two  1^"  x  |"  tenons  (see  section,  Fig.  6).  Two 
strings  or  thin  chains  are  fastened  to  the  drawbridge  which  is  4"  x  3^"  x  f.  The 
chains  should  be  fastened  3"  from  the  back  edge  of  the  bridge.  The  method  of  hinging 
the  bridge  by  means  of  two  thin  plates  \"  wide  is  shown  in  Fig.  7.  The  lifting  chains 
pass  through  holes  in  the  gateway  and  have  two  small  lead  weights  attached  to  their 
ends.  Adjust  these  weights  until  the  bridge  slowly  rises. 

RAMP. — This  is  of  thin  plywood  glued  and  pinned  together  (Fig.  7).  A  small  metal 
or  wood  "  button  "  may  be  fixed  to  the  ramp  to  hold  down  the  drawbridge,  or  a  small 
screw-eye  may  be  fixed  in  the  underside  of  the  bridge  and  a  hook  to  engage  in  it  screwed 
to  the  side  of  the  ramp. 

FINISH  the  castle  by  painting  to  imitate  stone.  Paint  in  doors  and  windows  to  keep 
and  loopholes  in  walls. 

62 


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HALF  PLAIN  OF 
PIERCED   BjDTTOn 


6  ENTRANCE 
SHOWING  METHOD 
Or  FIXING  TOWER  TO 
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63 


WHEELS:     THEIR      MAKING      AND      FIXING 

One  of  the  chief  problems  of  the  toy-maker  is  the  making  ot  wheels.  They 
may,  of  course,  be  bought,  but  generally  the  man  who  delights  in  making  the 
body  of  the  toy  gets  an  equal  satisfaction  from  fashioning  the  wheels. 
Only  if  made  from  hardwood,  such  as  ash,  beech,  birch  and  hornbeam,  free 
from  shakes  or  other  defects,  can  wooden  wheels  be  expected  to  last  well  ; 
they  should  also  be  well  proportioned  in  relation  to  the  rest  of  the  toy,  and 
large  enough  to  travel  easily  and  quickly.  Sufficient  thickness  to  enable  them 
to  withstand  shocks  and  hard  wear  is  an  additional  requisite. 

Wheels  for  small  toys  not  expected  to  receive  very  rough  usage  are  sometimes  cut 
from  old  curtain  poles  or  thick  dowel  rod.  If  the  wheels  are  cut  thick  and  the  pole  is 
old,  and  so  well  seasoned,  the  wheels  are  often  quite  satisfactory.  Large  wheels  should 
not  be  made  this  way,  as  the  grain  of  the  wood  runs  in  the  wrong  direction  to  withstand 
side  strain. 

The  ends  of  old  dumb-bells  make  very  useful  wheels  if  kept  thick.  They  are  quite 
suitable  for  use  in  such  toys  as  the  Warehouse  Trolley  on  Page  1 10. 

WHEEL     FIXING 

BY  SCREWS. — Rarely  is  screwing  a  satisfactory  form  of  fastening  wheels.  If  screws 
must  be  used,  the  toy  should  be  so  designed  that  the  screws  are  driven  into  the  side 
of  a  piece  of  hardwood,  and  as  sturdy  a  screw  as  the  construction  will  allow  should  be 
used  (Fig.  I).  Every  effort  should  be  made  to  avoid  screwing  wheels  into  end  grain 
(Fig.  2). 

ON  AXLES. — Where  a  toy  must  withstand  robust  handling,  wheels  should  be  fixed  to 
a  mild-steel  axle.  This,  in  turn,  should  be  passed  through  a  bearer,  or  other  part  of 
the  body  (Fig.  3),  which  will  hold  it  firmly  and  absorb  any  shock  ;  the  practice  of  boring 
holes  through  an  axle  and  screwing  it  to  the  body  (Fig.  4)  should  be  avoided.  The  holes 
weaken  the  axle  and  the  screws  soon  work  loose  or  break.  When  it  is  desirable  to 
plant  an  axle  on  a  base  the  axle  should  be  held  by  a  capping  piece  glued  and  screwed  to 
the  base,  as  in  Fig.  5.  A  washer  should  be  placed  on  both  sides  of  each  wheel  and  the 
wheels  held  on  the  axle  by  a  split  pin  passing  through  a  hole  bored  in  it  (Fig.  3).  The 
washers  help  to  eliminate  friction  between  the  wheel  and  the  surrounding  parts,  and 
prevent  wear  of  the  wheel  by  the  split  pin.  The  projecting  end  of  the  axle  should  be 
kept  short.  If  there  is  any  fear  of  its  causing  injury  to  a  child  it  may  be  covered  by  a 
small  "  press  in  "  tin  lid  screwed  to  the  wheel  and  covering  the  end  of  the  axle  and  the 
split  pin  (Fig.  6).  Fill  the  lid  with  thick  grease  before  screwing  .it  in  place. 

BUSHING. — To  ensure  easy  running  and  to  avoid  wear  of  wooden  wheels  by  the 
metal  axles,  the  wheels  should  be  "  bushed  "  (Fig.  7).  A  simple  and  efficient  way  of 
making  a  bush  is  to  saw  off  a  piece  of  metal  tubing  equal  in  length  to  the  thickness  of 
the  wheel  and  in  internal  diameter  a  little  larger  than  the  diameter  of  the  axle.  The 
hole  in  the  wheel  should  be  bored  just  large  enough  for  the  bush  to  be  a  tight  fit  when 

lightly  tapped  In.  (Continued  on  Page  66) 

64 


DIRECTION  OF 
GRAIh 


WASHERS 


HOLE  500H  6ECOMES 
ENLARGED  AMD 
SCREW    LOOSE- 


PlGl 


5CQEW    Ih 
END  GRAIM 

FlG  2  WRONG  METHOD 


WASHERS 


AXLE    PASSING 
FlG  5  THROUGH    BEARER 


AXLE  WEAKENED 


WRONG   METHOD 
SCREW  THROUGH  AXLE 


WA5HER5 


HOLE 5   FOR  SCREWS 


,.       ^         -   LID   A5    — 
FIG  6       GUARD  OVER  AXLE 


CAPPING  PIECE  READY  FOR 
FlG<5  GLUIMC   AF1D  SCREWING  TO  BASE 


PIECE  OF  TUBE  A5   BUSH 


LID  READY  TO  BE 
SCREWED  TO  WHEEL 


FlG  7     BUSHIMG 


65 


WHEEL  S— continued 

THE     SHAPING     OF     WHEELS 

Wheels  can  be  shaped  by  the  simple  use  of  bow  saw,  chisel  or  spokeshave,  and 
finished  by  means  of  file  and  glasspaper.  Unfortunately  this  is  a  slow  and  laborious 
method  which  frequently  results  in  wheels  which  are  not  truly  circular,  and  often  are  of 
unequal  diameters.  There  are,  however,  several  satisfactory  methods  of  making  wheels 
which  are  quite  round,  equal  in  size,  and  quickly  produced.  In  all  some  method  of 
rotating  either  wheel  or  shaping  tool  must  be  devised.  A  brief  description  of  some 
of  these  methods  follows  :— 

TURNED  WHEELS. — This  is  the  best  method  of  making  wheels,  but  only  where  a 
lathe  is  available  can  it  be  adopted.  It  is  quick,  it  allows  a  wide  range  of  decorative 
treatment  to  be  introduced,  and  a  fine  finish  may  easily  be  given  to  the  work.  A  square- 
sectioned  block  of  wood  is  first  made  octagonal  by  cutting  off  the  corners,  after  which 
it  is  made  cylindrical  (Fig.  I).  For  this  operation  it  is  fixed  to  a  face  plate  or  screw  chuck 
(Figs.  2  and  3),  or  it  is  turned  between  centres  by  a  prong  chuck  (Fig.  I).  Before  a  wheel 
is  cut  off  it  may  be  decorated  either  by  turning  or  piercing  (Figs.  3  and  4).  The  wheels 
may  be  cut  off  with  the  parting  tool  except  when  turned  between  centres,  when  they  are 
almost  separated  by  means  of  the  parting  tool  and  finally  removed  by  sawing.  If  it  is 
desired  to  use  waste  oddments  of  board  these  may  be  held  by  the  screw  chuck  (Fig.  2). 

WHEELS  SHAPED  BY  SCRATCH  STOCK.— In  this  method  the  wood  is  held  still 
and  the  cutter  moves  round  it.  The  scratch  stock  is  shaped  as  in  Fig.  5.  The  \"  metal 
pin  rests  in  a  hole  of  similar  size  bored  through  the  centre  of  the  wood.  This  hole  has 
later  to  take  the  axle,  and  so  may  have  to  be  enlarged  with  a  drill  of  suitable  size.  The 
cutter,  which  is  a  piece  of  tool  steel  ground  or  filed  to  suitable  shape,  is  held  in  the  stock 
by  a  screw  or  small  bolt  on  each  side.  Decoration  may  be  added,  according  to  the 
shaping  of  the  cutter,  to  one  or  both  sides  of  the  wheel.  It  may  be  necessary  to  cut 
thick  wheels  from  both  sides,  perhaps  completing  the  final  parting  by  means  of  a  bow  saw 
and  finishing  off  with  chisel  or  spokeshave.  Those  unaccustomed  to  this  method  will  be 
surprised  by  the  speed  and  accuracy  with  which  wheels  may  be  fashioned. 

BUILT-UP  WHEELS. — Wheels  may  be  built  up  from  discs  of  plywood  or  other  timber. 
These  should  be  glued  and  screwed  together,  care  being  taken  that  the  grain  of  the  wood 
in  the  various  discs  runs  in  different  directions  (Fig.  6).  One  disc  may  be  placed  between 
two  larger  discs  to  form  a  recess  into  which  a  tyre  may  be  fitted  (Fig.  7).  Such  a  wheel 
is  that  used  for  the  large  locomotive  on  Page  98.  A  similarly  made  small  wheel  but 
without  the  tyre  forms  a  pulley  (Fig.  8),  which  may  be  used  for  the  breakdown  lorry 
on  Page  78. 

(Continued  on  Page  68) 


66 


PRONG 
CHUCK 


CORNERS 
REMOVED 


CYLINDER 
TURNED 


FlGl  FIRST    OPERATIONS  AMD    USE    Of  PROhG    CHUCK 


5CREW 
CHUCK 


FIG  2 


WHEEL  WITH 

DECORATION    BY    PIERCING  ,  TURNED 

BLOCK    MOUNTED    ON    FACE    PLATE  Fl£  4-DECORATIOM 


4"  METAL  PIM 


CUTTER    GROUND 
TO  DESIRED  5HAPF 


WHEEL    READY    TO  BE  TURMED 
AMD   CUT    FROM   REVERSE  SIDE 


BUILDING  UP 
6       DI5C    WHEEL 


PULLEY 

DISCS 
8 


DISC    READY  FOR 

^SCREWING  DOWN 

7  OVER    TYRE 


67 


WHEEL  S— continued 

GUILLOTINE-CUT  WHEELS. — Shaping  by  means  of  a  guillotine  is  another  quick 
method  of  producing  wheels.  Such  wheels  are  plain,  but  some  decoration  by  piercing 
may  be  added.  The  guillotine  (Fig.  I),  which  should  be  made  of  hardwood  throughout, 
is  cheap  and  easy  to  construct.  Its  main  feature  is  the  cutting  arm  to  which  a  plane 
blade  is  fixed  by  two  small  nuts  and  bolts  (Figs.  I  and  2).  This  arm  is  pivoted  between 
two  uprights  tenoned  into  the  base  and  controlled  near  the  other  end  of  the  arm  by 
another  upright  in  which  a  slot  has  been  cut.  The  arm  is  a  close  fit  both  between  the 
uprights  and  in  the  slot,  thus  eliminating  any  side-play  and  ensuring  a  rigidly  vertical 
movement.  At  right-angles  to  the  blade  and  across  the  base  is  cut  a  dovetail  groove 
along  which  slides  a  slotted  piece  of  wood.  This  piece  of  wood  accommodates  a  pin 
of  £"  mild  steel,  and  is  fixed  in  any  required  position  along  the  groove  by  the  wing  nut 
of  a  small  bolt  passing  through  the  base.  A  scale  set  out  on  the  sliding  piece  and  an 
arrow  on  the  baseboard  enables  quick  adjustments  to  be  made  for  different  sizes  of 
wheels  (Fig.  2).  Before  shaping,  the  wheel  is  set  out  with  compasses,  a  \a  hole  is  bored, 
and  most  of  the  "  waste  "  removed  by  bow  or  tenon  saw.  It  is  then  rotated  on  the 
pin  and  pared  by  the  blade  on  the  cutting  arm.  To  protect  the  baseboard  a  piece  of 
hardwood  may  be  bored  and  slipped  over  the  pin  and  under  the  wheel  and  blade.  This 
may  be  renewed  as  it  becomes  worn.  To  prevent  accidents  it  may  be  advisable  to  fit  a 
wooden  wedge  in  the  slot  above  the  cutting  arm  when  the  guillotine  is  not  in  use. 

WHEEL-MAKING  WITH  DISC-CUTTER.— The  disc-cutter  illustrated  in  Fig.  3  may 
be  bought  cheaply  and  is  very  useful  for  cutting  discs  for  wheels  up  to  about  3"  diameter, 
it  may  be  used  in  either  a  drilling  machine  or  an  ordinary  brace.  Adjustment  of  the 
cutters  is  by  a  small  screw.  Various  forms  of  this  cutter  may  be  bought  but  they  vary 
very  little  in  their  action. 

WHEELS  FROM  TINS  AND  LIDS.— Very  useful  wheels  may  be  made  from  the  bases 
and  lids  of  many  common  tins.  First,  with  a  pair  of  tin-snips  cuts  are  made  along  each 
side  of  the  seam  and  nearly  down  to  the  base  (Fig.  4).  The  seam  is  bent  outwards  and 
cut  off,  thus  making  easier  the  removal  of  the  upper  portion  of  the  tin  (Fig.  4).  The 
lower  portion  and  the  lid  are  now  fitted  and  soldered  together.  A  strip  cut  from  the 
waste  body  of  the  tin  (Fig.  4)  is  then  rolled  into  a  tube  as  in  Fig.  5.  This  tube  is  passed 
through  a  hole  bored  in  the  wheel  and  is  riveted  on  both  sides  (Fig.  5).  The  tube  holds 
the  wheel  together  in  the  middle  and  also  acts  as  a  bush.  Greater  strength  can  be  given 
to  the  wheel  by  inserting  a  wooden  disc  before  lid  and  base  are  fixed  together  (Fig.  5). 


68 


CL05E    FIT 


FlG  1      CUILLOTIME     WITH     DISC    PARTLY    5MAPED 

-  r         ^    JtTI 

2L"  5PACE5 

WITH    DIAMETER 

JHOWN   Ifl   INCHES 


TIMBER 
"  THICK 


/  M  ADJUSTABLE 
\      CUTTER5 
U- 


PIG  2 

BLADE   ATTAChMENT  AMD  DIAMETER   IMOICATOR  FlG«3     DI5C    CUTTER 


THICKNESS    OF 
WHEEL  +  *  V- 

CUT  MERE 


FIG  4     WHEELS     FROM     TIN5 


PIECE  EOR  BU5H  ; 
ROLLED  INTO  TUBE 


JOINT   Of  LID  AMD 
BA5E  30LDERED 


TUBE  RIVETED 


FlGJ  A55EMBLY  Of  WHEEL 


69 


BREN-GUN     CARRIER 

This  small  carrier  can  be  used  to  transport  toy  soldiers,  small  blocks  or  sand. 
It  is  7^"  long,  4"  wide,  and  3f  high.  The  body  and  track  are  made  of  deal 
and  the  wheels  of  J*  plywood.  Dovetail,  tongue  and  groove,  halving,  or 
butt  joints  may  be  used  in  the  construction  of  the  body.  Butt  joints  are 
shown  in  the  illustrations  opposite 

CONSTRUCTION 

BODY. — Cut  two  sides  5"  X  2f  x  ^*  with  square  ends  (Fig.  2),  then  prepare  the 
back  21*  x  2i"  x  ;&*  and  the  front  3*  x  2f  x  &".  Carefully  cut  away  the  latter 
for  the  fitting  of  the  sides,  round-off  the  top  edge  and  bore  the  three  small  holes  (Figs. 
I,  3  and  6).  Clean  up  inside  faces  and  glue  and  pin  together,  taking  care  the  whole  is 
"  square."  To  complete  the  body  cut  the  bottom,  which  is  4|"  x  2^"  x  iV,  then 
glue  and  pin  it  in  place  (Fig.  I — section).  Put  aside  and  allow  glue  to  set. 

TRACK  PIECES.— Prepare  two  1\"  x  2|"  x  |".  From  Figs.  I  and  4  set  out  the 
shape,  then  cut  out  with  bow  saw  or  tenon  saw  and  chisel,  finishing  with  file  and  glass- 
paper.  To  suggest  links  in  the  track  make  light  saw-cuts  at  regular  intervals  across 
the  edge,  and  with  a  sharp  chisel  enlarge  each  into  a  shallow  "  V  "  (Figs.  I  and  7).  Now 
bore  two  stopped  holes  as  in  Figs.  4  and  7  ready  for  the  wheel?. 

WHEELS. — Cut  four  \\"  in  diameter  from  £"  plywood.  Bore  small  hole  in  centre 
of  each. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  body  and  track  pieces.  Drop  wheels  in  position  and  pin 
and  glue  tracks  to  body.  Hold  each  wheel  in  place  by  a  small  screw  passing  from  track 
piece  through  hole  in  wheel  and  into  body.  These  should  be  very  carefully  inserted  so 
that  wheels  run  freely.  Finally  paint  grey,  or  camouflage 


70 


SECTION   ON  AA 
2 


^^B^* 

FlG  1          SIDE   VIEW 


FRONT    VIEW 


r 

HALF 

FRONT 

) 

O 

•N 

I 

i 

nlffl 

HALF 

1 

BACK 

1 

2s 


BODY 

READY    FOR 
ASSEMBLY 


TRACK    PIECE    SHOWING 
STOPPED  HOLE  TOR  WHEEL 


DUCK     CART    AND     BRICKS 

This  "  friendly  "  little  cart  is  a  great  favourite  with  small  children,  and  is  easy 
to  construct.  It  is  made  in  deal,  painted  in  gay  colours  and  filled  with  forty 
bright  bricks  l£"  x  IJ"  X  !£'. 

Where  a  number  of  duck  carts  are  to  be  made  tor  the  equipping  of  a  large 
nursery  it  is  suggested  that  all  broad  surfaces,  and  the  bricks,  be  painted  in 
one  colour  with  the  narrow  edges  in  a  contrasting  colour.  Bricks  from  various 
carts  may  then  be  heaped  on  the  floor  and  their  collection  into  the  appropriately 
coloured  carts  by  the  children  is  both  an  enjoyable  game  and  a  useful  colour- 
training  exercise. 

CONSTRUCTION 

SIDES. — Prepare  two  pieces  I'  0"  x  5*  x  f".  From  Fig.  I  set  out  the  given  shape 
and  the  two  stopped  grooves  |*  wide  and  T35*  deep.  Cut  the  four  grooves,  then  cut 
out  the  curves  and  finish  with  spokeshave  and  glasspaper. 

BOTTOM.— This  is  II*  x  6$"  x  |*  and  is  shown  in  Fig.  3.  Shape  the  front,  then 
mark  out  and  cut  the  stopped  groove  £*  deep  for  the  head. 

HEAD. — This  is  cut  from  a  piece  of  deal  7"  x  4V  X  \' '.     The  shape  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

FRONT. — Prepare  this  with  both  ends  square  from  a  piece  6|*  x  3i*  x  |".  Across 
the  middle  cut  a  groove  £"  wide  and  £"  deep  to  register  with  the  groove  in  the  bottom 
(Fig.  4). 

BACK.— Cut  out  this  piece  6|*x2i*x|"  with  square  ends  (Fig.  4). 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  the  six  pieces  and  glue  and  nail  together.  Punch  in  the  nails. 
The  bottom  fits  in  between  the  sides.  Finally  screw  on  the  four  wheels  (Fig.  6)  with  a 
washer  on  both  sides.  Into  the  front  of  the  bottom  drive  a  small  staple  to  which  a  cord 
may  be  attached. 

BRICKS.— Plane  up  a  piece  6'  0*  x  l£*  x  l£*  and  cut  It  into  forty  blocks  |i*  long. 
Clean  up  the  blocks  and  round-off  all  the  edges. 


72 


BACK 

> 

GROOVE  i"x^" 
FRONT 

| 


FIG 


BOTTOM 


GROOVf 


f 


JL. 


FlG 


T.— 7 


73 


ELEPHANT     ANDCART 

A  cart  load  of  bright  bricks,  the  movement  of  the  toy,  and  a  "  sleepy  "  little 
elephant  all  help  to  make  this  an  attractive  toy.  The  bricks  are  similar  to 
those  in  the  Duck  Cart  on  Page  72.  Sufficient  should  be  prepared  to  make 
a  bright  heap  in  the  cart.  If  a  number  of  elephants  and  carts  are  provided 
and  painted  as  suggested  for  the  Duck  Cart  the  collection  of  the  bricks  into 
their  appropriate  carts  can  again  be  made  a  pleasing  colour-training  exercise. 

CONSTRUCTION 

ELEPHANT. — This  is  made  in  three  pieces  ;  the  middle  one  includes  the  body,  head 
and  trunk,  while  the  outer  ones  include  body  pieces  and  legs.  The  latter  are  tenoned 
into  the  baseboard.  On  a  board  I'  I"  x  4"  x  5"  set  out  the  shapes  of  the  three  pieces 
(Figs.  I  and  2),  then  with  bow  saw,  spokeshave  and  file,  shape  and  finish  them.  Cut 
the  tenons  on  the  ends  of  the  legs.  Shape  the  baseboard,  which  is  7|"  x  3£"  x  5".  Cut 
out  the  coupling  piece  at  one  end  and,  from  Fig.  2,  set  out  and  cut  the  eight  "  through  " 
mortices  for  the  wheels  and  the  legs.  Bore  a  |"  hole  in  the  coupling  piece  and  glue  in 
a  I*  length  off"  dowel  (Fig.  I).  Clean  up  the  base.  Glue  and  pin  the  three  elephant 
pieces  together,  clean  up  the  finished  animal  and  glue  it  to  the  base.  Now  cut  eight 
wheels  l£*  diameter  from  %*  plywood.  Slip  four  of  these  into  the  mortices  in  the  base 
and  put  a  |"  No.  6  screw  through  the  side  of  the  base  and  the  centre  of  each  wheel  to 
act  as  an  axle. 

CART. — From  Fig.  3  set  out  the  bottom,  which  is  6£"  x  3|"  x  £".  Cut  out  the 
bottom  including  the  two  notches  for  wheels  on  each  long  side.  On  one  end  screw 
coupling  piece  2f  x  I*  cut  from  £"  plywood  and  with  a  £"  hole  with  its  centre  |"  from 
the  end  (Fig.  3).  The  two  ends  are  4£"  x  2|"  x  £*  with  the  top  edges  rounded  and 
both  ends  square.  Make  a  notch  I*  wide  and  £*  deep  in  the  bottom  edge  of  one  of  them 
to  fit  over  the  coupling  piece.  Cut  four  side  bars  (Figs.  I  and  4).  In  the  top  bars  the 
grooves  are  carried  through  but  in  the  two  bottom  bars  they  are  stopped.  The  angle 
for  the  grooves  is  shown  by  the  thick  line  in  Fig.  I. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  sides,  ends  and  bars.  First  fasten  bottom  bars  to  bottom 
of  cart.  Glue  and  nail  the  ends  to  the  bottom  and  the  bottom  bars,  then  glue  and  nail 
the  top  bars  in  place.  Now  slip  the  remaining  four  wheels  into  the  notches  and  screw 
into  place  as  with  the  elephant. 


74 


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75 


TIP     LORRY 

The  drawings  on  the  opposite  page  are  of  a  sturdy  tip  lorry  I'  2*  long  and 
61*  wide.  By  turning  the  small  levers  on  the  sides  the  body  is  made  to  rise 
at  the  front  end  while,  at  the  same  time,  the  tail-piece  swings  open.  It  can 
be  made  in  either  soft  or  hard  wood. 

CONSTRUCTION 
BASEBOARD.— This  is  I'  2*x6'x|*.     At  one  end  cut  out  a  piece  7*x5"  as  in  Fig.  2. 

UNDERFRAMING.— Cut  two  side  pieces  I'  If"  x  IJ*  x  |*  and  two  end  pieces 
5£*  x  1 3*  X  |*.  Mark  out  and  cut  grooving  joints  as  in  Fig.  3.  Bore  a  i"  hole  in  each 
side  piece  5*  from  one  end.  From  a  piece  of  %'  plywood  cut  a  disc  2"  in  diameter.  Bore 
a  £*  hole  |"  from  the  edge.  This  is  to  take  the  turning-rod,  which  is  6f  long.  Glue 
and  pin  disc  to  rod.  Clean  and  glue  up  framing,  slipping  in  turning-rod  before  fastening 
on  the  second  side  (Fig.  3).  Check  for  squareness.  Clean  baseboard  and  screw  to 
framing. 

CAB  AND  BONNET.— From  a  block  5^*  x  3f"  x  3"  shape  and  finish  the  cab  as  in 
Fig.  4,  and  from  a  piece  5"  x  3£*  x  2£"  shape  the  bonnet — see  also  Fig.  4.  Glue  and 
screw  both  to  the  baseboard  (Fig.  I ). 

BODY. — Prepare  two  side  pieces  7"  x  3£*  x  £",  one  front  5"  x  3£"  x  £",  and  one 
loose  tail  board  4£*  x  3£*  x  \°  (Fig.  5).  The  bottom  is  of  \"  plywood  7"  x  5".  Join 
sides  and  front  together  by  means  of  butt,  halving  or  dovetail  joints.  Clean  all  pieces 
and  glue  together,  taking  care  to  keep  quite  square.  Glue  and  pin  bottom  to  sides  and 
front.  Now  fit  in  tail  board  as  in  Fig.  6. 

FINAL  ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  outside  of  body,  and  fit  into  cut-away  portion  of  base- 
board. Bore  holes  2£"  from  the  end  of  the  baseboard  for  pivots.  These  are  two  I*  No.  8 
screws.  Put  in  screws  and  fix  body  in  position  (see  Fig.  I).  Shape  two  levers  |"  thick, 
bore  a  \"  hole  in  broad  end  and  glue  and  pin  them  to  the  ends  of  the  turning-bar  (Fig.  I). 
Finally,  securely  screw  on  wheels  and  paint  as  desired. 


76 


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BOTTOM 

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BOARD 

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1 

BONNLT 


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77 


BREAKDOWN     AND     G.P.     LORRIES 

These  two  lorries,  one  a  breakdown  and  the  other  for  general  purposes,  are  a 
little  smaller  than  the  tip  lorry,  but  in  construction  they  are  very  similar. 
They  may  be  made  in  either  hard  or  soft  wood. 

CONSTRUCTION 
BASEBOARD.— This  is  I'   I"  x  5"  x  |"  and  is  square  at  both  ends. 

UNDERFRAMING  (Fig.  2).— Cut  two  side  pieces  I'  Of"  x  l£"  X  f  and  two  cross 
pieces  4%*  X  \¥  X  |*.  Mark  out  and  cut  a  groove  f  wide  and  £"  deep  2"  from  each 
end  of  the  side  pieces.  Bevel  the  ends  of  the  side  pieces.  Clean  up  all  pieces,  glue 
and  nail  together  carefully,  keeping  frame  quite  square.  Screw  baseboard  to  framing. 

CAB  AND  BONNET.— The  cab  is  4£*  wide,  4"  high  and  3*  thick,  tapered  as  shown 
in  Fig.  I.  The  bonnet  is  4"  wide,  3£"  long  and  2"  thick,  tapering  to  1\"  wide  and  If 
thick  at  the  front.  Clean  up  both  pieces  and  fix  by  screws  through  base. 

BODY. — For  the  body  of  the  general-purposes  lorry  make,  from  £"  material,  a  shallow 
bottomless  box  with  outside  measurements  of  6f  x  4^"  x  2".  Use  halving  (Fig.  4), 
tongue  and  groove  (Fig.  5),  or  dovetail  joints.  Clean  up  and  fasten  to  base.  Note 
that  the  measurements  given  in  the  sketches  opposite  must  be  adjusted  to  suit  kind 
of  joint  used. 

For  the  breakdown  lorry,  fasten  two  pieces  3£"  x  If  X  5"  to  the  base,  as  in  Fig.  I. 

CRANE. — From  a  board  4"  wide  and  f  thick  shape  two  side  pieces,  as  Fig.  3,  with 
the  grain  of  the  wood  running  along  the  arm.  Cut  a  spacing  piece  f  *  thick  (Figs.  3  and  6). 
At  the  top  of  each  side  of  the  crane  drill  a  small  hole  for  the  pulley  axle  and  a  \"  hole 
for  axle  of  winding  gear.  To  make  the  pulley  wheel,  cut  two  plywood  discs  \\"  diameter. 
Bevel  one  side  of  each  and  glue  together  (Fig.  3).  Bore  a  hole  for  the  axle. 

For  the  winding  gear  cut  two  \"  thick  wheels,  l£"  diameter  and  bore  \"  holes  through 
the  centre  for  the  axle.  The  latter  may  be  a  piece  of  dowel  rod  2£"  long.  Drill  holes 
and  glue  in  short  lengths  of  thin  dowel  rod  as  handles.  Place  axle  in  position,  glue  on 
the  wheels,  then  fix  crane  in  position  by  screws  through  base. 

COMPLETE  by  screwing  on  wheels,  with  small  washer  on  each  side,  and  paint  suitably. 


78 


Ficl 


SIDE  AMD  fROhT 
ELEVATIONS  OF  CRANE 


•»• 

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\ 

i 

— 

-- 

-— 

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1!   v 

BASE  BOARD 

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5PACIMG\  PlG  6 


i 


79 


SCOOTER 

To  a  child  a  scooter  not  only  gives  pleasure,  it  also  helps  to  develop  confidence 
and  a  valuable  sense  of  balance.  The  scooter  illustrated  opposite  is  strong, 
pleasing  in  appearance,  and  easy  to  construct.  Note  that  the  length  of  the 
notches  cut  in  the  footboard  and  steering-piece  depends  upon  the  diameter 
of  the  wheels.  In  width  the  notches  must  be  equal  to  the  thickness  of  the 
wheels  plus  a  little  for  clearance. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FOOTBOARD. — From  a  board  2'  0*  x  5"  x  I"  mark  out  the  footboard  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  Cut  the  notch  for  the  rear  wheel  and  the  mortice  for  the  front  block.  Cut  the 
curves  at  the  rear  end  and  the  bevels  at  the  front.  From  Fig.  4  set  out  and  shape  the 
block  shown.  The  angle  for  the  front  is  shown  in  Fig.  4,  by  a  thick  line.  Fit  the  block 
to  the  footboard,  clean  up  and  glue  and  screw  in  position. 

STEERING-PIECE.— This  is  2'  0"  x  3"  x  |".  On  one  end  mark  out  the  notch  for 
the  front  wheel,  and  at  the  other  end  a  \"  tenon.  Cut  notch  and  tenon  (Fig.  3). 

HANDLE. — For  this,  prepare  a  piece  I  T  x  2"  x  |".  In  the  centre  set  out  a  mortice 
3*  x  ?*.  Cut  the  mortice  and  shape  the  handle  as  Fig.  5.  Clean  up  and  glue  handle 
to  steering-piece. 

BRACKETS. — Shape  these  from  two  pieces  of  |"  x  g"  mild  steel.  They  are  4"  long 
with  arms  at  right  angles  and  l£"  long.  Two  holes  ^"  in  diameter  are  drilled,  one  in 
each  arm,  for  the  pivot  bolt.  If  an  actual  bolt  is  used  for  this,  its  end  should  be  riveted 
slightly  after  assembly  so  that  the  nut  does  not  shake  off.  If  a  piece  of  ^"  mild-steel 
rod  is  used,  it  should  be  held  in  a  vice  and  a  head  shaped  on  it.  At  the  other  end  a  small 
hole  should  be  drilled  and  a  split  pin  inserted.  In  the  back  of  each  bracket  drill  two  or 
three  &"  holes,  then  screw  one  bracket  to  the  block  and  one  to  the  steering-piece  (Fig.  3). 

WHEELS. — These  run  on  £"  or  |"  bolts  or  rod  which,  again,  should  be  riveted.  If 
wheels  are  to  be  made,  a  suitable  wheel  is  that  used  for  the  locomotive  on  Page  98.  The 
wheels  should  be  "  bushed." 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  all  parts,  mount  wheels  with  a  thin  washer  on  each  side,  and 
bolt  footboard  and  steering-piece  together.  Varnish  or  paint  as  desired. 


80 


THICKNESS 
OF  WHEELS 


?:' 


8  I 


TANK 

Realism  is  the  keynote  of  this  tank.  The  gun  turret  swivels  while  the  gun 
itself  may  be  elevated  or  depressed.  The  tank  is  8^"  long,  5"  wide  and  5" 
high.  Any  soft  wood  will  do  for  its  construction. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BODY. — This  is  one  piece  7\"  x  3£*  x  3*.  Square  both  ends.  Through  the  centre 
on  the  underside  bore  a  I*  hole  f*  deep.  With  a  £"  bit  continue  the  hole  through 
the  block  (Fig.  2).  Next  bevel  the  four  corners  as  shown  (Fig.  2),  and  mark  centres  for 
wheel  sockets  If  diameter.  Bore  these  slightly  more  than  |"  deep.  Clean  up  the 
block. 

TRACK  PIECES.— Prepare  two  8£"  x  3*  x  1"  and  shape  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  To 
get  link  effect  make  shallow  saw-cuts  across  the  pieces  about  |"  or  I"  apart  and,  with  a 
sharp  chisel,  shape  the  cuts  to  V  shape — Fig.  I.  Clean  up  both  pieces. 

GUN  TURRET. — Construct  from  two  side  pieces  shaped  as  in  Fig.  5,  and  a  centre 
block  as  in  Fig.  4.  Bore  a  £*  hole  |*  deep  for  end  of  pivot.  Glue  and  pin  sides  to  block. 

GUN  MOUNTING.— Shape  this  as  in  Fig.  6  and  fit  it  between  turret  sides  (Fig.  I). 
Bore  a  £*  hole  in  the  mounting  to  take  the  gun  barrel,  which  is  3"  long,  tapering  from 
£*  to  ^*.  Glue  in  the  barrel  and  hold  mounting  in  position  with  two  fine  screws  acting 
as  pivots  (Figs.  I  and  5). 

TURRET  PIVOT.— This  is  3*  long  and  \"  diameter.  Drill  a  small  hole,  \"  from  one 
end,  for  a  pin  (Fig.  I). 

ASSEMBLY. — Fix  pin  in  pivot  and  push  pivot  through  hole  in  body.  Glue  end  of 
pivot  and  fix  turret  in  position  on  it.  Cut  four  l£"  wheels  |"  thick  and  drill  small  hole 
through  centre  of  each.  Place  these  in  the  sockets  and  glue  and  pin  track  pieces  to 
body.  Fine  screws  should  now  be  inserted  through  track,  centre  hole  of  wheel,  and 
into  body  to  act  as  wheel  axles.  Great  care  should  be  taken  that  the  wheels  are 
exactly  central  in  their  sockets.  Finally  clean  up  and  camouflage. 


82 


r—  1 
_^ 

1          1 

1    1 

Fial 


SIDE  of  TURRET 
FIG 


CENTRE:  OF  TURRET 

_  /j 

f 


7T 

CUN 
MOUNTING 


TRACK  PIECE. 
FIG  5 


83 


HORSE     ON     WHEELS 

This  horse  has  other  qualities  apart  from  its  value  as  a  toy  ;  when  stored 
away  its  shelves  can  accommodate  small  toys,  whilst  the  tail  bar  is  an  excellent 
support  for  the  small  child  learning  to  walk. 

For  some  small  children  the  top  of  the  horse  may  be  a  little  wide;  an  altern- 
ative form  is  therefore  shown  on  Plate  III.  Here  the  ends  are  tapered  and 
the  top  reduced  in  width  from  6"  to  4|" 

CONSTRUCTION 

BODY.— This  is  20"  x  I3i*  x  6"  with  a  "shelf"  4"  x  I"  along  the  centre. 
Prepare  top  and  bottom  to  a  finished  size  of  20"  x  6"  X  §*  (Fig.  4),  and  two  end  pieces 
I3£*  X  6*  x  I*  (Fig.  5).  All  four  pieces  should  be  finished  quite  square. 

Set  out  dovetails  for  top  and  bottom  as  in  Fig  3.  Cut  out  joint  and  fit  together  "  dry." 
Number  the  joints. 

Prepare  shelf  20*  x  4*  x  §",  then  set  out  and  cut  tenons  (Fig.  6).  Make  saw-cuts 
diagonally  along  tenons  for  insertion  of  wedges  (Fig.  2). 

Across  the  middle  of  both  ends  draw  two  lines  |"  apart  and  set  out  mortises  between 
these  lines  as  in  Fig.  5.  Working  from  both  sides  so  as  to  prevent  splitting,  cut  the  four 
mortises  and  fit  the  shelf. 

Clean  up  the  inner  sides  of  top,  bottom  and  both  ends,  as  well  as  the  four  sides  of 
the  shelf.  Glue  up,  check  for  squareness,  glue  and  insert  wedges,  and  put  aside  to  set. 

HEAD  AND  TAIL. — From  Fig.  2  by  squares  mark  out  the  head  on  a  board 
13*  x  IO*  x  l£*  and  then  cut  out  and  clean  up  ready  for  fitting.  Cut  tail  piece  as  Fig.  9, 
bore  |*  hole  for  bar,  and  clean  up. 

WHEELS. — The  large  wooden  wheels — 5"  to  6"  diameter — should  be  bushed  (see 
Page  64)  and  mounted  on  f*  round  mild-steel  axles.  They  should  have  washers  on  each 
side  and  be  held  on  by  split  pins.  The  axles  are  held  to  the  body  by  pieces  of  hardwood 
grooved,  as  in  Fig.  7.  For  these  prepare  a  piece  12"  x  If"  X  |"  and  plough  along  the 
centre  a  groove  |*  x  |".  Cut  into  two  lengths  of  6"  each. 

ASSEMBLING  AND  FINISHING.— When  the  glue  has  set,  clean  up  the  body  all  round 
and  set  out  and  cut  the  stopped  grooves  for  the  head.  Fit  and  screw  the  head  and  tail 
in  position.  Round  off  the  edges  of  the  seat.  Attach  the  wheels  by  screws  through 
the  two  grooved  pieces.  Glue  the  short  bars  (Fig.  8)  in  the  holes  in  head  and  tail,  and 
finish  with  varnish  or  two  coats  of  paint. 


84 


3  HEW  INSERTED  INTO 
-^TOPPED  GROOVES 


FIG  4 

TOP  AND  BOTTOM 


85 


SACK    TRUCK 

Sturdiness,  utility  and  pleasing  appearance  are  the  main  features  of  this  toy. 
If  constructed  as  shown  it  should  give  great  pleasure  and  withstand  rough 
usage  for  many  years.  It  may  be  made  in  hard  or  soft  wood. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRAMING.— Prepare  two  side  pieces  each  2'  6"  x  2"  x  l£".  Starting  from  one 
end  of  each,  mark  out  the  first  mortice  1 5"  x  5*  and  I*  from  the  end.  From  Fig.  2  set 
out  the  remaining  three  mortices.  Cut  all  cleanly,  working  from  both  sides,  and  enlarge 
on  the  outside  of  each  for  wedges.  Mark  out  and  shape  handles  8"  from  other  end. 

Prepare  four  rails  each  I'  0"  x  1 5*  x  f  (Fig.  3).  Set  out  and  cut  tenons  l£"  long. 
Fit  joints  "  dry,"  then  number  them.  Take  apart,  then  chamfer  ends  of  tenons  (Fig.  3). 
Clean  up  side  pieces  and  rails.  Cut  sixteen  5*  wedges.  Glue  up  frame  and  insert  wedges, 
keeping  frame  square  and  "  flat."  Clean  off  surplus  glue  and  ends  of  wedges. 

BRACKET  PIECES.— Shape  two  pieces  T  x  \±*  X  \X  as  Fig.  4,  and  bore  f  hole 
for  axles.  Glue  and  screw  brackets  to  frame  (Fig.  I). 

TAIL  BOARD  (Fig.  5).— This  Is  I'  2*  x  4"  x  i*.     Round  off  top  edge. 

METAL  FITTINGS.— Make  from  f*  x  &  mild  steel  two  angle  pieces  as  Fig.  6.  Drill 
holes  as  indicated  by  crosses  in  sketch.  From  same  size  metal  bend  and  drill  two  legs 
(Fig.  7).  Note  that  depth  of  leg  depends  upon  diameter  of  wheels  used  ;  the  truck 
should  be  horizontal  when  in  position  indicated  in  Fig.  I. 

AXLE  (Fig.  8).— This  is  I'  Of  long  plus  the  thickness  of  the  wheels.  Drill  a  T%*  hole 
at  a  distance  of  TV  from  each  end. 

ASSEMBLY. — Slip  axle  through  holes  In  brackets.  Add  the  wheels,  which  should 
be  bushed  at  each  end  with  a  washer  on  each  side,  and  fasten  with  split  pins  (Fig.  8). 
Screw  on  angle  pieces,  tail  board  and  legs,  and  truck  is  ready  for  painting. 


86 


87 


COASTER 

Any  child  will  be  thrilled  by  this  "  coaster  "  but  it  is  particularly  attractive 
to  small  boys,  who  quickly  acquire  the  ability  to  steer  by  means  of  the  feet. 
By  increasing  the  dimensions  it  can  be  made  suitable  for  larger  boys. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BASEBOARD.— This  is  I'  9*  x  I0£*  x  I".  Square  back  and  cut  and  finish  front  to 
curve  of  Fig.  3.  Bore  £*  hole  2£"  from  the  front. 

SIDE  PIECES. — Cut  two  1 1*  x  5"  x  f "  and  finish  to  shape  as  Figs.  I  and  4.  On  inside 
faces  mark  out  and  cut  stopped  grooves  ^"  wide  and  \"  deep  for  the  seat  (Fig.  4). 

SEAT. — One  piece  9"  x  7"  x  ^  with  both  ends  square.     Fit  into  grooves. 

BACK  RAIL — This  is  10"  x  I"  x  |*.  On  both  ends  cut  the  tail  of  a  dovetail  halving 
joint.  Cut  sockets  and  fit  "  dry  "  to  side  pieces  (Figs.  I  and  4).  Clean  up  inside  faces 
and  glue  and  nail  together  the  seat,  sides  and  rail.  Check  for  squareness. 

BACK  WHEELS. — Cut  two  brackets  as  Fig.  6  and  fit  to  baseboard  as  in  Fig.  8.  The 
wheels  are  mounted  as  in  Fig.  9,  with  the  axle  going  through  the  bracket. 

FRONT  AXLE  MOVEMENT.— Prepare  two  pieces  I'  2"  x  2"  x  I"  and  two  side 
pieces  4f  x  2"  x  |"  (Figs.  5  and  7).  On  one  of  the  long  pieces  mark  out  dovetails 
and  on  the  other  tenons,  as  Fig.  5.  Mark  out  corresponding  sockets  and  mortices  on 
side  pieces.  Cut  and  fit  together  "  dry."  Number  the  joints.  Bore  holes  for  axles. 
In  centre  of  long  pieces  bore  |"  holes  for  pivot  bolt.  Clean  up,  glue  up,  and  allow  to  set. 

Cut  two  axles  of  f"  mild-steel  rod,  one  I'  2"  and  the  other  10"  long.  Drill  holes 
for  split  pins.  Prepare  bushed  wheels  (see  Page  64). 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  all  parts.  Screw  seat  portion  to  base.  Glue  and  screw 
wheel  brackets  to  base.  Fix  front  movement  in  place  with  |"  bolt  and  with  large  washer 
immediately  above  and  below  the  baseboard.  Slide  in  axle  and  mount  wheels  as  Figs. 
I  and  9,  and  coaster  is  ready  for  painting. 


88 


PROMT  AXLE 
MOVEMLMT 


T.— 8 


89 


DOG     ON     WHEELS 

This  toy  is  very  strong,  simple  to  construct,  and  has  a  pathetic  and  appealing 
look  which  makes  it  very  attractive  to  most  children.  Three  pieces  of  board 
form  the  body,  the  outer  two  being  tenoned  into  the  base.  The  head  is 
separate  and  is  screwed  between  the  sides  of  the  body  (Figs.  I  and  7).  Through 
it  passes  a  f"  dowel  gripping  bar.  A  saddle  piece  screwed  to  the  back  (Figs. 
I  and  2)  adds  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  riding.  The  wheels  are  of  wood  with 
•fe"  or  §*  bushes  (Fig.  5).  Washers  and  split  pins  hold  the  wheels  to  the 
metal  axles.  A  piece  of  hardwood  is  ploughed  to  fit  over  the  axles  and  is 
screwed  to  the  underside  of  the  base. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BODY. — To  cut  the  two  sides  fasten  together  two  pieces  of  wood  I'  2"  x  9"  x  i". 
From  Fig.  4  mark  out  the  shape  and  the  tenons.  Cut  and  finish  both  side  pieces  together. 
Bore  and  countersink  four  £"  screw  holes  in  each  piece,  so  placed  that  when  the  body  is 
assembled  the  screws  on  each  side  will  not  be  opposite  each  other.  Cut  the  centre  or 
tail  piece  as  in  Fig.  3.  The  baseboard  (Fig.  6)  is  I'  9"  x  6"  x  |".  Set  out  the  four  mor- 
tices and  cut  through  from  both  sides.  The  mortices  should  be  enlarged  a  little  on  the 
underside  to  allow  for  wedges.  Round  off  the  four  corners  of  the  base. 

Fit  the  shaped  sides  to  the  base.  Number  the  tenons  and  mortices.  Clean  up  the 
sides  and  glue  and  screw  them  to  the  centre  piece. 

HEAD. — On  a  piece  of  board  II"  x  7"  x  |"  mark  out  the  head  by  squares  (Fig.  7). 
Cut  out  with  bow  saw  and  finish  with  spokeshave,  file  and  glasspaper.  Bore  f"  hole  for 
rod. 

SADDLE  PIECE. — Shape  this  as  Fig.  2.  Bore  three  holes  as  indicated  for  attaching 
to  body. 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  and  screw  head  to  body.  Now  cut  eight  wedges  and  fasten 
body  to  base,  taking  care  that  it  is  upright.  Screw  saddle  piece  to  the  back. 

Prepare  a  piece  of  hardwood  I'  0"  x  l£"  X  f.  Along  the  centre  of  the  wide  side 
plough  a  groove  similar  in  width  to  the  diameter  of  the  axle  (Fig.  5).  Mount  wheels 
on  axle  with  washers  on  either  side.  Place  in  position  and  screw  down  the  ploughed 
covering  pieces,  using  l£"  No.  8  screws.  Glue  the  6"  piece  of  |"  dowel  rod  in  the  head 
and  the  dog  is  ready  for  painting. 


90 


" 1 


HEAD 


FIG  7 


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5IDE5  Of   BODY 

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^ 

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15 

J 

^ 

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8» 


-CENTRE 

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^r 
_i 

FIG  5 


CEMTRC 
PIECE 


9  I 


NOAH'S    ARK 

Unlike  most  arks,  this  one  is  mounted  on  four  wheels  and  has  couplings 
behind  for  the  animals  on  Page  94  to  be  linked  up,  "  two  by  two,"  and  drawn 
along  with  the  ark.  It  is  I'  8£"  long,  9£"  wide  and  I'  0"  high,  and  is  made 
of  deal. 

CONSTRUCTION 

HOUSE  SECTION.— Prepare  two  sides  (Fig.  4)  each  I'  I"  x  5"  x  \\  At  a  distance 
of  \"  from  the  ends  of  each,  cut  a  groove  \"  wide  and  \"  deep.  Prepare  also  the  two 
ends  of  the  house,  which  are  7"  x  5£"  x  \"  and  shaped  as  in  Fig.  2  with  a  \"  x  J*  tongue 
on  the  edges.  Fit  the  ends  to  the  sides,  clean  up  and  glue  and  nail  together,  keeping  the 
whole  square.  Cut  the  deck  I'  7"  x  7|"  x  £"  (Fig.  6).  Clean  up  and  screw  to  the 
sides  and  ends  of  the  house  with  I "  No.  8  screws.  The  roof  is  loose  with  one  side  I'  2"  x 
5"  x  |"  and  the  other  I'  2"  x  4f  x  |".  From  \"  plywood  shape  two  ends  or  "  barge 
boards,"  as  Fig.  8.  Glue  and  pin  together  the  two  sides  of  the  roof,  then  glue  and  pin 
the  barge  boards  in  place.  Finally  glue  blocks  along  the  angle  of  the  roof  as  in  Fig.  I 
(section). 

BOAT  SECTION.— Cut  and  shape  two  sides  I'  8i*  x  4£"  x  £"  with  i"  x  y  grooves 
across  the  ends  (Figs.  I  and  7).  Cut  two  ends  with  £*  x  £*  tongues  on  the  sloping  edges 
(Fig.  3).  Fit  together  sides  and  ends,  then  cut  the  bottom,  which  is  I'  5"  x  6£"  x  £". 
From  Fig.  5  mark  out  and  cut  the  four  through  mortices  for  the  wheels,  which  are  If 
diameter  and  |"  thick.  Mount  the  wheels  on  axles  held  by  a  covering  piece  screwed  to 
the  bottom  (Fig.  8).  Clean  up,  then  screw  sides  and  ends  to  bottom.  Around  the 
sides  and  ends  screw  a  £*  x  5"  strip  to  support  the  deck  (Figs.  I  and  7). 

Finally,  prepare  two  pieces  4"  X  I*  X  f,  then  |"  from  one  end  of  each,  bore  a  \" 
hole  and  glue  into  this  a  I"  length  of  \"  dowel.  Glue  and  screw  these  pieces  to  the 
bottom  (Fig.  I). 

Complete  by  painting  suitably.  Windows,  doors,  etc.,  may  be  painted  in  as  shown 
in  sketch  at  top  of  page  opposite. 


92 


ANGLL 
BLOCK 


&  BACK  OF 

BOAT 

PORTION 


DElTAILOf  WHELEL3 


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f-lOO 

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GROOVL 


EMD  Of  ROOF 


93 


ANIMALS 

The  five  sketches  are  of  wild  animals  to  be  mounted  on  wheeled  bases  and 
are  designed  to  link  up  with,  and  be  drawn  behind,  the  ark  on  the  previous 
page.  A  pair  of  each  should  be  cut.  Other  animals,  both  wild  and  domestic, 
may  be  added  if  desired.  When  not  in  use  the  animals  may  be  stored  away  in 
the  ark. 

CUTTING  THE  ANIMAL  SHAPES.— The  shapes  should  be  cut  from  plywood  about 
|"  thick.  First  cut  ten  pieces  of  plywood,  two  for  each  shape,  a  little  larger  than  the 
given  sizes.  Square  two  adjacent  sides,  and  with  a  try  square  and  pencil  set  out  the 
squares.  With  these  as  guides  mark  out  the  animals.  Cut  the  tenons  below  each  shape 
before  the  shape  itself.  Having  cut  the  figures  with  a  fretsaw  and  finished  the  edges 
with  glasspaper,  prepare  the  bases. 

BASES. — One  will  be  required  for  each  figure.  They  are  5£"  long,  2£"  wide,  and 
|"  thick.  From  the  sketch  mark  out  and  cut  the  four  wheel  mortices,  then  mark  out 
on  one  end  the  |"  x  f*  projection  for  the  coupling  peg.  Make  the  vertical  cuts  before 
sawing  the  shoulders.  Round-off  the  corners  as  in  the  sketch  and  in  the  centre  of  the 
projecting  portion  carefully  bore  a  \"  hole  and  glue  in  a  |"  length  of  dowel. 

WHEELS. — The  wheels  are  made  from  hardwood  and  are  l£"  diameter  and  \"  thick. 
They  are  mounted  in  the  mortices  so  as  to  prevent  their  being  pulled  off.  Attach  wheels 
to  base  by  a  I"  No.  6  screw  through  each,  as  in  sketch. 

COUPLING  PIECES.— These  are  of  \a  plywood  51"  long  and  |"  wide.  Mark  out 
along  centre  lines  the  two  through  mortices  for  the  tenons  on  the  animals.  The  dimensions 
for  these  must  be  taken  from  the  individual  animals.  Cut  the  mortices.  Through  one 
end  of  each  piece  with  its  centre  %"  from  the  end,  bore  a  |"  hole.  Round-off  the  other 
end  as  in  sketch. 

PAINTING. — Before  assembling  clean  up  and  paint  the  various  parts  in  suitable  colours. 
For  example,  the  bases,  couplings  and  wheels  may  be  blue,  the  zebra  cream  with  black 
bands,  the  kangaroo  brownish  red,  deeper  in  colour  along  the  back,  the  polar  bear  creamy 
white,  the  camel  yellowish  brown  and  the  elephant  grey  with  white  tusks. 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  and  pin  the  coupling  pieces  to  the  bases,  allowing  end  with  hole 
to  project  I*.  Glue  tenons  and  mortices  and  fix  animals  in  bases,  taking  care  they  are 
upright. 


94 


KANGAROO 

SQUARES  j* 


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PQUARE5 

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95 


ENGINE 

All  engines  are  popular  with  children.  The  sturdiness,  pleasing  appearance 
and  modern  lines  of  this  model  make  it  particularly  attractive.  It  is  2'  8" 
long,  II*  wide,  and  I'  0£"  high. 

CONSTRUCTION 

UNDERCARRIAGE.— Prepare  two  side  pieces  2'  7"  x  2$"  x  |".  From  Fig.  2  mark 
out  and  cut  two  grooves  f"  wide  by  \"  deep.  Cut  bevel  I"  x  I"  on  each  bottom  corner 
(Fig.  I).  Prepare  two  end  pieces  10"  x  2£"  X  f".  Fit,  glue  and  nail  undercarriage 
together,  keeping  it  square  and  flat. 

BASEBOARD.— This  is  2'  8"  x  1 1"  x  |*.     Both  ends  are  square. 

BOILER.— Cut  two  pieces  I'  4"  x  5£"  x  I".  Make  a  i"  x  \"  tongue  along  on  edge 
of  each.  Next  prepare  one  piece  I'  4"  X  8"  x  2".  Plough  two  grooves  i"  wide  by  i" 
deep  on  one  side,  as  in  Fig.  3.  Fit  and  glue  the  three  pieces  together.  Glue  blocks 
along  angle  of  each  joint  (Fig.  3).  When  the  glue  has  set,  shape  the  top  to  a  curve,  as 
in  Fig.  3. 

CAB. — Cut  and  shape  two  side  pieces  9£"  x  4£"  x  |",  as  in  sketch,  and  a  top  piece 
10*  x  4£"  X  |".  Dovetail  pieces  together  (Figs.  I  and  4)  with  tails  at  top  of  side  pieces. 
Clean  inside  faces  and  glue  up  square.  Cut  front  of  cab  9£"  x  10"  and  glue  and  screw 
it  to  sides  and  top.  Round-off  corners,  as  indicated. 

TENDER. — Prepare  sides  9£"  x  5"  x  f".  Round  front  corners  as  sketch.  Prepare 
back  10"  x  5*  x  f".  Dovetail  pieces  together,  clean  insides  and  glue  together. 

TANK  PIECES. — Prepare  two  7"  x  5"  x  |"  and  make  square  at  both  ends. 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  outsides  of  cab  and  tender.  Screw  boiler  to  base,  then  cab 
to  boiler  and  base,  and  also  tender  to  base.  Now  screw  base  to  undercarriage  and  glue 
and  nail  tank  pieces  to  boiler.  Complete  boiler  by  fitting  a  f"  capping  piece  over  open 
end  (Fig.  I)  and  by  letting  into  top  two  short  lengths  of  \\"  and  2"  rod  as  funnel  and 
valve  (Fig.  I).  Finally  mount  wheels  on  f"  or  £"  mild-steel  rod — see  sketch — and  paint 
in  bright  colours. 


96 


SECTION  OF 
WHEEL 


3ECTION 
THROUGH 
BOILER 


JOINT    FOR 
TEHDER 
AMD    CAB 


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FRONT  OF! 

CAB          .1 

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TAMK 
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BACK  OF 
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^       Ojl"  *~ 

5IDE  OF 
TEMDER 

97 


STREAM-LINED     LOCOMOTIVE 

This  stream-lined  locomotive,  so  modern  and  pleasing  in  appearance,  is  large 
enough  to  carry  three  or  four  small  children  at  a  time.  It  is  4'  0"  long, 
I'  0"  high  and  8£"  wide,  yet  despite  its  large  size  it  is  not  particularly  difficult 
to  construct.  It  is  made  in  five  deal  sections,  A,  B,  C,  D  and  a  bogey.  When 
the  construction  is  complete  the  engine  should  be  painted  in  bright  red,  green 
or  blue,  with  the  bogey  and  sides  of  section  D  in  black.  The  wheels  should 
be  black  or  the  colour  of  the  body.  If  red  or  green  is  used  for  the  body,  a 
heavy  black  line,  following  the  line  of  the  chamfer  as  in  Fig.  I,  adds  greatly 
to  the  stream-line  appearance.  If  blue  is  used  for  the  body,  aluminium  paint 
is  most  suitable  for  this  line.  The  chamfer  and  the  vertical  portion  of  the 
smoke  stack  also  may  be  painted  in  similar  colour  to  the  line. 

CONSTRUCTION 

SECTION  A. — This  consists  of  a  l£"  framing  (Fig.  2)  with  a  cover  board 
3'  10"  X  81*  X  I".  For  the  framing,  cut  two  side  pieces  2'  II"  x  l£"  X  I"  and  at 
both  ends  cut  a  i"  x  £"  tongue.  The  front  is  a  block  1\"  x  6"  x  l£"  and  the  back 
another  block  8£"  x  6£"  X  1^".  Cut  the  four  grooves  for  tongues  and  fit  and  glue 
the  framing  together.  Shape  the  cover  board,  as  in  Fig.  2,  and  glue  and  nail  it  with  oval 
brads  to  the  framing.  Now  from  Figs.  2  and  7  (Page  101)  complete  the  shaping  of  the 
boiler  and  cab  along  the  whole  length  of  the  section,  leaving  a  1^"  wide  flat  on  the  top 
for  a  smoke  stack.  The  outer  curve  of  Fig.  7  shows  the  shape  of  the  cab.  For  this 
shaping  use  smoothing  plane,  flat  spokeshave  and  paring  chisel,  and  reduce  the  section 
to  approximate  shape  only  ;  leave  the  final  shaping  until  after  all  the  boiler  sections 
are  assembled. 

SECTION  B. — The  construction  of  this  section  is  similar  to  that  of  the  framing  in 
Section  A.  The  side  pieces  are  3'  |i"  x  2£"  x  I"  with  £"  x  \"  tongues  at  the  ends. 
The  front  is  7£"  x  6±"  x  2£"  and  the  back  8^"  x  4£"  x  1\" .  Set  out  the  curves  from 
Figs.  3  and  6  (Page  101)  and  shape  as  in  Section  A.  The  "V"  notch  KS  cut  in  the 
front  block  to  allow  the  nut  of  the  pivot  bolt  to  be  screwed  down. 

(Continued  on  Page  100) 


98 


DOT™ 
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99 


STREAM-LINED     LOCOMOTIV  E— continued 

SECTION  C. — The  side  pieces  of  this  section  are  3'  I"  long,  4"  wide  and  I*  thick, 
with  a  cut-away  portion  in  the  middle  I'  11*  X  ~L\"  (Fig.  4).  The  front,  which  may  be 
in  one  block  or  built  up,  is  8£"  x  8"  x  4*.  and  the  back  8£"  x  4"  x  4".  Tongue  and 
groove  together  the  front,  sides  and  back,  shape  the  curves  as  in  Fig.  4,  and  make  a  f"  x  5" 
chamfer  on  the  top  edge.  Let  this  end  in  a  mason's  mitre  at  the  cab  and  run  out  in 
front  as  Fig.  4 

SECTION  D.— Prepare  two  side  pieces  2'  9£"  x  5$"  X  |"  (Fig.  S),  a  front  piece 
5f*  x  3*  x  |"  and  a  back  piece  5f  x  2£"  x  |".  Cut  |"  x  |"  tongues  and  grooves 
and  glue  together.  See  that  the  frame  is  quite  square. 

BOGEY. — Construct  the  bogey  from  2"  x  I"  deal  with  tongue  and  groove  joints. 
Bore  a  |"  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  centre  piece  for  the  pivot  bolt. 

ASSEMBLY. — Fit  A,  B  and  C  "  dry,"  planing  off  level  if  necessary.  First  glue  and 
nail  together  Sections  B  and  C,  using  oval  nails,  and  then  fix  A  to  them.  Punch  in  the 
nails  and  complete  the  shaping  of  the  whole  boiler.  Glue  and  screw  Section  D  in  place. 
To  give  additional  strength  a  supporting  piece  (Figs.  I  and  7)  may  be  cut  from  ^"  deal 
and  fixed  inside  when  assembling  the  sections.  Bore  the  hole  through  the  front  block 
of  Section  C  and  bolt  the  bogey  in  place. 

WHEELS. — The  large  wheels  are  5"  and  the  small  ones  2|"  in  diameter.  Each  is 
made  of  a  f*  square-section  rubber  ring,  supported  by  a  |"  thick  disc,  with  a  \"  plywood 
disc  of  |"  larger  diameter  glued  and  screwed  on  each  side.  The  wheels  are  bushed, 
have  a  washer  on  each  side  and  are  held  on  f*  axles  by  split  pins.  Bore  holes  for  the 
axles  in  the  bogey  and  at  the  rear  of  Section  D,  then  bore  the  others  for  the  larger  wheels. 
Insert  the  axles  and  attach  the  wheels  as  shown  in  sketch. 


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FIG  6 


DETAIL  OF 
JOINTS 


PIECE 


PROMT  BACK 

FiG.7 


DETAIL  OF 
WHEELS 


I  0  I 


WHEELBARROW 

This  wheelbarrow  has  been  carefully  planned  so  that  when  lifted  its  weight 
is  so  completely  thrown  on  to  the  wheel  that  quite  a  small  child  can  use  it 
even  when  it  is  loaded.  Its  over-all  length  is  2'  4",  width  I'  3"  and  height 
I'  2".  Deal  is  suggested  for  its  construction. 

CONSTRUCTION 

UNDERFRAMING. — Prepare  two  side  or  handle  pieces  2'  I"  x  l£"  x  I*  as  in 
Fig.  2.  Mark  out  and  cut  in  each  the  two  through  mortices  shown.  These  are  1^"  x  £". 
Now  prepare  two  bars,  one  I'  0£*  X  \¥  X  \"  and  the  other  IQi"  x  l£"  x  I".  From 
Fig.  3  mark  out  barefaced  tenons  with  splayed  shoulders.  Cut  tenons  and  fit  "dry." 
Chamfer  ends  of  tenons.  Shape  two  pieces  4"  x  I"  X  I"  and  glue  and  screw  to  side 
pieces  as  in  Fig.  2.  From  a  piece  of  §"  mild  steel  make  two  gudgeon  plates  as  in  sketch 
and  screw  in  position  (Fig.  2). 

WHEEL. — From  a  board  3*  wide  and  I"  thick  mark  out,  cut  and  finish  four  felloes. 
Cut  butt  joints.  In  both  ends  of  each  felloe  bore  a  f"  hole  f  deep.  In  one  end  of  each 
glue  a  l£"  length  of  f  dowel  rod.  In  the  centre  of  the  inside  curve  of  each  felloe  bore 
a  f  hole  ^*  deep  to  receive  the  dowel  in  the  end  of  a  spoke  (see  sketch).  Cut  three 
spokes  from  f  dowel  rod,  two  2|"  long  and  the  other  7".  The  latter  goes  through  the 
axle  from  felloe  to  felloe.  Bore  ends  of  spokes  and  insert  f"  dowels  with  £"  projecting. 
From  material  of  l£"  x  1^"  section  shape  the  axle  illustrated.  Bore  a  f"  hole  through 
in  one  direction  and  a  |"  hole  in  the  other  (see  "  section  ").  Screw  a  2"  No.  16  screw 
into  each  end  of  the  axle  and  cut  off  the  heads.  Fit  wheel  together  "dry,"  measure 
circumference  with  string  and  bend  tyre  from  I"  x  §"  mild  steel.  Drill  screw  holes  in 
it,  then  glue  up  wheel  and  fix  tyre  in  place. 

BODY. — Shape  two  sides  from  material  |"  thick  as  Fig.  6.  Cut  grooves  for  back,  or 
"  headboard  "  (Fig.  4).  From  £*  board  prepare  the  bottom  (Fig.  5).  The  two  legs 
are  I'  T  x  \%"  x  l£"  ;  shape  as  in  Fig.  I.  Finally  cut  two  side  bars,  or  "  front  pillars," 
II*  X  \%"  X  £".  Chamfer  edges  of  these  and  of  legs  (Fig.  I). 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  up  the  framing  with  wheel  in  position.  Screw  down  the  bottom. 
Glue  and  nail  sides  to  back  and  screw  these  to  bottom  and  framing.  Screw  legs  to  sides 
and  framing,  then  bore  \"  holes  for  tie  bar,  which  may  be  screwed  or  riveted.  Screw 
on  side  bars  and  finish  with  varnish  or  colour. 


I  02 


AXLE       SECTION 
FELLOE 


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Fl«i  2   FRAMING  SIDE 


I  03 


SMALL     SWING 

The  small  swing  illustrated  opposite  is  ideal  for  a  very  young  child,  or,  if  the 
height  is  increased  by  I'  6",  it  becomes  a  useful  swing  for  children  up  to 
five  years  of  age. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BASE. — Prepare  two  sides  3'  0"  x  2"  x  I"  and  at  both  ends  of  each  mark  out  and 
cut  bridle  joints  (Figs.  2  and  6).  In  the  centre  mark  out  and  cut  a  through  mortice 
2£"  x  J".  Cut  also  the  groove  I"  wide  and  £*  deep  as  Fig.  2.  Finally  cut  the  two  joints 
shown  for  struts.  When  cutting  these  leave  a  little  for  a  final  fitting  with  the  strut 
itself.  Prepare  two  end  pieces  I'  8*  x  2*  x  I*  and  cut  tenons  on  the  ends  (Fig.  6). 
Fit  and  glue  the  base  together  square.  Cut  a  cross  piece  I'  6£*  X  2*  x  I"  and  fix  in 
the  grooves 

POSTS. — These  are  2'  6*  x  2£*  x  I".  Mark  and  cut  a  tenon  on  one  end  of  each 
(Fig.  3)  and  fit  the  tenon  into  the  base.  At  the  other  end  of  each  post  cut  bridle  joints 
(Fig.  3).  Now  mark  out  and  cut  joints  for  struts  and,  as  in  base,  leave  a  little  for  final 
fitting. 

STRUTS. — Cut  four,  I'  6"  x  2"  x  I",  and  bevel  the  ends  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Fit 
struts  to  base  and  posts.  Number  joints. 

TOP  RAIL— Make  this  2'  0*  x  T  x  I*.  Mark  out,  and  from  Fig.  4  cut  and  fit  rail 
to  posts. 

SLATS.— Cut  five  2'  1 1"  x  3"  x  f . 

ASSEMBLY. — First  clean  up  all  parts.  Glue  and  wedge  posts  into  base.  Glue  and 
screw  top  rail  in  position,  then  glue  and  screw  struts  to  base  and  posts,  using  one  screw 
in  each  joint.  Fasten  slats  to  base,  as  Fig.  I. 

SEAT.— This  is  1 1'  x  1 1"  x  f.  Four  small  safety  bars  II*  x  l£*  x  |"  should  also 
be  prepared,  rounded  off  on  all  edges,  and  have  a  hole  bored  I*  from  each  end.  Spacing 
pieces,  to  fit  between  these  and  the  seat,  may  be  prepared  by  boring  through  sections  of 
cylindrical  material,  e.g.,  brush  handle.  Fit  together  as  in  Fig.  I  and  hang  on  two  stout 
screw-eyes  fixed  in  top  rail.  Bind  the  ropes  with  thin  cord  immediately  below  the 
screw-eye. 


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T.— 9 


05 


METAL    SWING 

This  attractive  indoor  swing  has  been  planned  for  a  small  child  of  two  to  four 
years  but,  if  desired,  it  may  easily  be  enlarged  to  take  bigger  children.  The 
swing  is  made  up  of  two  tubular  frames,  rectangular  in  shape,  mounted  on  a 
wooden  base.  The  seat  swings  on  two  metal  bushes  so  as  to  eliminate  wear 
on  the  ropes. 

CONSTRUCTION 

METAL  FRAMING.— Bend  a  piece  of  f"  tubing  into  a  rectangle  4'  0"  x  2'  0"  (Fig.  3) 
with  the  joint  6"  from  one  side.  In  the  long  end  insert  a  metal  dowel  and  drill  a  ^"  hole 
through  both  tube  and  dowel.  After  countersinking  both  ends  of  hole,  drive  in  and 
"  spread  "  rivet,  then  file  ends  smooth  (Fig.  4).  Close  the  frame  and,  5"  from  the  side, 
drill  a  second  g"  hole  through  tube  and  dowel  for  a  split  pin  (Fig.  2).  Drill  a  corresponding 
hole  5*  from  the  other  side  (Fig.  I). 

By  means  of  a  board  5"  wide  and  two  "  G  "  cramps  hold  one  end  of  the  frame  on  a 
bench  and  lift  up  the  free  end  8£*  from  the  bench  top  (Fig.  3).  Now  with  a  piece  of  the 
same  tubing  9'  8"  long  bend  an  open-ended  frame  (Fig.  I).  Fix  the  open  ends  of  this 
to  the  bench  top  and  make  a  similar  bend  on  it  3"  from  the  open  ends.  Bore  ^"  holes 
through  both  frames  and,  with  two  ^"  bolts  or  rivets,  fasten  frames  together  as  in  Fig.  I. 

BUSHES  AND  SPACING  BAR.— From  a  piece  of  tubing  of  |"  internal  diameter  cut 
two  pieces  f"  long  as  bushes  and  one  I'  0£"  long  as  a  spacing  bar.  Open  unfixed  joint 
of  frame  and  slide  on,  in  this  order,  a  washer,  f"  bush,  washer,  spacing  bar,  washer,  bush, 
washer.  Finally  close  the  frame  and  slip  in  both  split  pins  (Figs.  I  and  2). 

SEAT  (Fig.  5).— This  is  I  I"  x  10"  x  I*  with  a  |"  hole  bored  in  each  corner  and 
with  all  corners  and  edges  rounded  off.  Cut  four  seat  rails,  two  I'  I"  x  \%"  X  £"  and 
two  10"  x  \¥  X  5".  Cut  two  holes  in  each  to  register  with  those  of  the  seat.  From 
a  piece  of  tubing  cut  four  distance  pieces  7"  long.  Cut  two  6'  0"  lengths  of  good  sash 
cord  and  mount  the  swing  (Figs.  I  and  5).  Tie  the  cords  together  immediately  below 
the  bushes.  A  single  knot  only  is  required  under  the  seat. 

BASE  (Figs.  I  and  6).— Prepare  two  pieces  of  deal  3'  6"  x  2"  x  2",  two  pieces 
2'  0"  x  2"  x  2"  and  two  pieces  I'  8"  x  T  x  2"  (Fig.  6).  Mark  out,  cut  and  fit  joints 
"  dry."  Along  top  sides  of  middle  pieces  plough  |"  x  |"  grooves.  Glue  up  the  frame, 
keeping  it  quite  square.  Prepare  four  slats  3'  5"  X  4|"  x  £"  (Fig.  I). 

ASSEMBLY. — Stand  the  bases  of  the  rectangular  tubing  in  the  grooves  of  the  base. 
Screw  down  the  slats  with  a  f"  space  between  each. 

FINISH  by  painting  in  two  bright  colours. 

I  06 


I  07 


S  E  E  -  S  A  W 

This  see-saw  is  essentially  one  for  very  young  children  ;  grips  are  provided 
to  enable  them  to  hold  on  securely,  blocks  under  the  seat  guard  against  their 
rising  too  high,  bumping  violently,  or  trapping  their  feet.  It  is  only  necessary 
to  lift  off  the  seat  portion  to  enable  the  see-saw  to  be  stowed  away  in  a  small 
space. 

CONSTRUCTION 

BASE. — Prepare  two  side  pieces  I'  8"  x  2"  x  2"  and  two  cross  pieces  I'  4"  x  2"  x  2". 
Set  out  and  cut  the  four  cross  halving  joints  (Figs.  I  and  2).  Fit  them  together  "  dry" 
and  number  them.  Cut  £"  x  £"  bevels  on  the  ends  of  each  piece  (Fig.  2).  Bore  two 
f  holes  through  the  side  pieces  4^"  on  either  side  of  the  centre  (Figs.  I  and  2).  Clean 
up,  then  glue  and  screw  the  framing  together,  carefully  checking  for  squareness.  Bend 
two  pieces  of  |"  stout  metal  tubing  2'  0"  long  into  the  shape  shown  in  Figs.  I  and  3. 
These  are  the  supports.  Through  the  middle  of  the  top  (Fig.  3)  bore  a  j^"  hole.  Cut 
a  9"  piece  of  similar  tubing  as  a  rocking  bar  and  drill  two  T35"  holes  as  in  Fig.  4.  Clean 
up  the  base  and  insert  the  supports.  Drill  screw  holes  as  in  Fig.  2  and  put  two  1^"  No.  8 
screws  in  each  support  to  hold  it  securely.  Complete  the  base  by  bolting  down  the 
rocking  bar  with  two  T3B*  bolts. 

HEADS. — From  a  board  I'  6"  x  4"  x  2"  cut  two  heads.  On  the  bottom  ends  cut 
tenons  (Fig.  5).  Through  each  head  bore  a  f"  hole  for  an  8"  length  of  |"  dowel  rod. 

SEE-SAW. — This  is  a  board  7'  0"  x  6"  x  |".  Mark  out  and  cut  the  mortices  for  the 
heads,  bore  holes  for  screws  and  round-off  the  edges  of  the  board.  From  Fig.  I  shape 
two  "  shock-absorber  "  blocks  4"  x  3*  x  \\".  Fasten  a  spiral  or  flat  spring,  or  a  thick 
piece  of  rubber,  to  the  bottom  of  each  block.  Screw  the  blocks  to  the  board  (Fig.  I). 
Make  two  clips  (Fig.  3)  from  f  x  §"  mild  steel  and  screw  them  under  the  middle  of  the 
board.  Glue  the  rods  in  the  holes  in  the  heads,  glue  and  screw  the  heads  to  the  board, 
and  the  see-saw  is  ready  for  painting. 


08 


JOINT  BETWEEN  HEAD  &  BOARD 


i        ROCKING  BAR'  »-*• 


9" 


09 


WAREHOUSE     TROLLEY 

The  construction  of  this  trolley  involves  a  small  amount  of  simple  sawing, 
drilling  and  bending  of  metal  tubing.  The  handles  are  formed  from  |"  conduit 
or  similar  tubing,  screwed  against  the  inner  side  of  the  base  framing  (Fig.  2). 
There  are  three  axles  of  equal  length  and  four  wooden  wheels  (Fig.  I  plan) 
which,  if  possible,  should  be  provided  with  metal  bushes.  The  front  and  rear 
wheels  are  mounted  centrally  on  the  axles  and  held  there  by  a  split  pin  and 
washer  on  either  side  (Fig.  3),  while  the  two  middle  wheels  (Fig.  4)  are  at  the 
ends  of  the  centre  axle.  These  wheels  are  about  i"  larger  in  diameter  than 
the  front  and  rear  wheels,  to  facilitate  turning  of  the  trolley.  An  alterna- 
tive method  of  holding  the  wheels  in  place  is  by  the  use  of  spacing  bars  of 
larger  diameter  tube,  as  In  the  swing  on  Page  106,  instead  of  split  pins. 

CONSTRUCTION 

UNDERFRAMING.— Prepare  two  sides  to  a  finished  size  of  I'  9"  x  3"  x  |"  and  two 
ends  I'  I"  x  3"  x  g".  Set  out  and  cut  "  tails  "  for  common  dovetails  on  sides  and  from 
these  set  out  "  sockets  "  on  end  pieces.  Cut  sockets  and  fit  frame  "  dry."  In  both  long 
sides  set  out  and  bore  holes  £"  deep  for  the  axles.  The  distance  of  these  from  the 
bottom  edge  will  depend  upon  the  diameter  of  the  wheels.  In  both  the  end  pieces 
bore  two  |"  holes  for  the  handles  (Fig.  2). 

Cut  axles  to  a  length  of  I2£"  so  that  £*  rests  in  each  side  piece.  Drill  holes  for  split 
pins  and  mount  wheels.  Glue  joints,  insert  axles  and  wheels,  and  put  frame  together, 
carefully  checking  for  squareness. 

HANDLES. — From  two  pieces  of  |"  tubing  5'  6"  long  bend  handles  to  given  shape. 
Drill  four  ^"  screw  holes  for  bars  for  handle  and  six  ^"  holes,  three  on  either  side, 
for  fixing  handles  to  framing.  Alternative  suggestions  for  bars  across  the  handles  are 
given  in  Figs.  I,  5  and  6.  Prepare  four  pieces  according  to  style  selected. 

SLATS.— Prepare  eight  pieces  of  deal  I'  2"  x  2£"  x  f  for  slats  of  base.  Bore  and 
countersink  a  ^"  screw  hole  |"  from  the  ends  of  each  slat. 

ASSEMBLY. — If  bars  as  Fig.  6  are  used,  slide  and  screw  them  into  position,  then 
insert  tubing  into  base  and  screw  handles  to  framing.  If  bars  as  Fig.  5  are  used,  they 
may  be  screwed  in  place  after  handles  are  fixed.  Paint  top  edge  of  base  and  edges  of 
slats,  then  screw  down  slats  and  finish  the  painting. 


I  I  0 


* 

_JC. 

"•i 


U  , 


ll-JC. 


i  r 


OF  FAOMT 
OR  REAR  WHEEL 


SECTIONED    BASE 
5HOW5  WHEEL 

MOUNTINGS 


IQI 


PLAN   WITH  5LAT5  AND   HANDLES 
REMOVED  TO  SHOW  WHEEL 

MOUMTIHG5 


5ECTIOM  SHOWING 
CErtTRE  WHEELS 


Tic;  2 

HANDLES  SCREWED 
TO  5IDE5  OF  BA5E 


lie,  6 


i  1 1 


LONG     SWING 

In  a  nursery  a  swing  which  will  accommodate  four  or  five  children  at  a  time  is 
particularly  useful.  Although  rather  long  (7'  0")  when  in  use,  this  swing  can 
be  dismantled  very  quickly  by  the  removal  of  two  wing  nuts,  and  stored  away 
in  a  small  space. 

CONSTRUCTION 

TUBULAR  FRAMES.— From  two  12'  0"  lengths  of  stout  metal  tubing  of  |"  or  f* 
diameter,  bend  two  rectangles  4'  0  x  2'  0",  then  with  a  hacksaw  shorten  the  arms 
of  the  open  ends  to  7£*  each  (Fig.  5).  To  hold  frames  closed  cut  two  7"  lengths  of  slightly 
larger  tube  that  will  fit  easily  over  the  framing.  Insert  open  ends  of  frames  into  the 
7"  tube,  press  together  until  ends  touch,  and  with  7"  tube  in  centre  drill  two  TV  holes 
through  both  tubes  for  &"  bolts.  The  two  frames  should  now  be  4'  0"  long  and  2'  0" 
at  the  bottom,  tapering  to  I'  3*  at  the  top  (Fig.  5).  Complete  frames  by  bending  across 
middle  at  an  angle  of  60°  (Fig.  I),  as  described  with  metal  swing  (Page  106). 

ROCKER  ARMS.— Prepare  pieces  of  hardwood  I  3"  x  If  x  I"  with  rounded 
ends  as  Fig.  3.  Bore  a  hole  1^*  from  each  end  to  take  a  I*  length  of  the  larger  tube  as  a 
bush.  A  screw  may  be  put  through  wood  and  bush,  and  filed  level  inside  the  bush  to 
prevent  it  moving  in  the  wood  (Fig.  3).  Cut  two  pieces  of  the  smaller  tube  10"  long 
for  the  bottom  bar  of  the  rockers.  A  §*  hole  should  be  drilled  \*  from  each  end  for  a 
split  pin. 

ASSEMBLY  OF  ROCKER  ARMS.— Open  the  frames.  Slide  on  each  side  a  washer 
followed  by  a  wooden  arm,  then  close  and  fix  the  ends  of  the  frame  inside  the  7"  tube. 
Hold  washers  and  arms  against  tube  and  drill  a  £"  hole  at  each  end  for  a  split  pin.  Slip 
in  the  bottom  bar,  add  a  washer  outside  each  end  and  insert  pins  (Figs.  I  and  3). 

BASE. — This  is  constructed  from  a  piece  T  0"  x  2"  x  2*  and  two  cross  pieces 
2'  4*  x  2*  x  1".  These  should  be  cross-halved  9"  from  ends  of  long  piece,  as  in  Figs. 
2  and  6,  and  bored  for  a  f  bolt.  Cut  notches  2"  from  ends  of  each  piece  to  fit  over  tubes. 
Permanently  fix  frames  to  cross  pieces  by  bolts  or  rivets  (Fig.  2). 

SEAT. — This  is  a  board  5'  6"  x  7"  x  i*  with  top  edges  slightly  rounded.  Screw 
two  metal  clips  (Fig.  4)  3^"  from  each  end.  These  drop  into  position  over  bars  of  rocker 
arms. 


I  2 


I  I  3 


TUBULAR     ROCKER 

For  two  children  this  is  a  very  popular  toy  which  combines  the  thrill  and 
movement  of  the  see-saw  with  valuable  stretching  and  pulling  exercise  for 
arms,  chest  and  shoulders. 

CONSTRUCTION 

TUBULAR  PORTION. — From  any  stout  board  3'  2"  x  10"  cut  a  "former  "  to  the 
curve  of  Fig.  3.  On  one  end  screw  a  stout  metal  plate  with  a  hole  of  the  same  diameter 
as  the  tube  to  be  used  for  rockers.  Cut  off  a  piece  of  |"  or  f  stout  metal  tube  as  long 
as  the  curve  of  the  "  former."  Insert  one  end  through  the  hole  in  the  plate  and  bend 
the  tube  to  the  "  former,"  then  reverse  the  tube  and  bend  the  other  end.  Make  two 
of  these  rockers.  Finally  bend  two  pieces  4'  5"  long  to  form  open  rectangles  as  in  Fig.  2. 

SEATS. — From  wood  I"  thick  prepare  two  seats  as  Fig.  I.  Bore  two  holes  of  diameter 
equal  to  exterior  diameter  of  tube.  On  underside,  4"  from  back  edge,  bore  two  holes 
£"  deep  to  take  ends  of  rockers.  Seats  from  broken  Windsor  chairs  may  often  be 
adapted  for  use  with  this  rocker. 

SEAT  BATTENS.— Prepare  two  I'  4"  x  2"  x  I*.  Bore  two  holes  in  each  for  rockers 
(Fig-  I)- 

HANDRAIL— Prepare  one  I'  4J*  X  T  X  I*  with  holes  for  tube  (Fig.  5). 
TAIL  PIECES.— Shape  two  I'  0"  x  1\H  X  \\°  as  in  Fig.  4. 

BOTTOM  RAILS.— Prepare  two  I'  4£"  x  3'  x  \\"  tapering  to  f  as  in  Fig.  5.  In 
each  bore  two  holes  for  the  rectangular-shaped  tube  (Fig.  9). 

FLOOR  SLATS  (Figs.  2  and  5).— Prepare  four  2'  5"  x  2i*  x  £"  and  one  cross  piece 
I'  2"  x  2"  x  |"  for  a  footboard.  Bore  a  -fa"  screw  hole  1\"  from  each  end  of  each  slat. 

ASSEMBLY. — (I)  Slide  handrail  over  to  centre  of  rectangular-shaped  pieces,  drill  TV 
holes  and  screw  in  position  (Fig.  6).  (2)  Screw  seat  battens  on  underside  of  seats  (Fig.  7). 

(3)  Screw  the  floor  slats  to  the  bottom  rails  and  the  footboard  across  the  slats  (Fig.  2). 

(4)  Slip  ends  of  rectangular  pieces  of  tube  through  holes  in  seats  and  at  correct  height 
screw  in  place  (Figs.  2  and  8).     (5)  Insert  ends  of  these  tubes  into  bottom  rails  flush 
with  bottom  side,  drill  and  screw  as  before  (Fig.  9).     (6)  Spring  both  rockers  in  position 
and  screw  into  seat  rails  and  up  into  bottom  rails  (Fig.  9).     (7)  Screw  on  tail  pieces. 
Note. — The  screws  used  should  be  No.  10  gauge  and  pass  through  tubes  with  at  least  f 
into  the  wood  on  the  other  side. 


I  I  4 


P05mori  or 

5fAT  6ATTEM 
AHO  TAIL  PIECE 


SCREW  THROUGH 

TUBE  irrro  RAIL 


Jte  6 

HANDRAIL  SCREWED 
TO  TUBE 


I  I  5 


SMALL    SLIDE 

The  slide  shown  on  the  opposite  page  is  for  very  small  children.  It  is  safe, 
easy  to  climb,  and  not  too  high  for  a  child  just  able  to  climb  the  steps.  The 
total  height  is  4'  0",  width  2'  0",  and  it  is  2'  9"  from  front  to  back.  The 
chute  is  7'  0"  long.  When  not  in  use  it  stands  upright  against  the  front 
frame,  hooked  into  brackets  screwed  to  the  top  tread  and  bottom  stretcher. 
The  construction  of  the  chute  and  hooks  is  described  on  Page  118. 

CONSTRUCTION 

FRONT  FRAMING.— On  two  boards  4'  0"  x  7"  x  |"  mark  out  and  cut  two  grooves, 
f  wide  and  \"  deep,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Now  pierce  and  shape  the  handles.  An  alterna- 
tive suggestion  for  handles  is  shown  in  Fig.  I.  On  the  front  edges,  4^"  up  from  the 
bottom,  cut  a  mortice  in  each  piece  2"  x  \"  and  1^"  deep  for  tenon  of  stretcher  (Figs. 
3  and  4).  Cut  two  pieces  I'  I  Of  X  7"  x  f "  with  square  ends,  for  top  tread  and  bottom 
stretcher.  Clean  up  inside  faces  and  glue  and  nail  together  with  2"  oval  nails  (Figs.  I 
and  3).  Carefully  check  for  squareness. 

STEPS. — Prepare  two  boards  4'  0"  x  7"  x  |".  From  Figs.  3  and  5  mark  out  these 
two  "  strings,"  taking  care  to  "  pair  "  them.  The  heavy  lines  in  Fig.  5  show  the  cutting 
bevel.  Shape  the  ends  as  Fig.  5  and  cut  the  grooves  \"  deep.  The  four  treads  are 
I'  9£*  x  9"  x  |*  with  square  ends.  To  economise  material  they  may  be  reduced  to  6" 
wide  but  the  grooves  should  then  be  "  stopped."  Clean  up  the  insides  and  glue  and  nail 
together,  checking  carefully  for  squareness  (Fig.  2). 

STRETCHERS.— Cut  two  2'  0"  x  2*  X  |"  and  on  one  end  of  each  cut  a  \"  tenon  |i* 
long.  Fit  these  to  mortices  on  front  edge  of  uprights  of  framing  (Fig.  3). 

ASSEMBLY. — Clean  up  outsides  of  front  framing  and  steps.  Screw  steps  to  inside 
of  front  framing  (Fig.  3).  Glue  tenon  of  stretcher  into  mortice  and  screw  other  end  to 
side  of  steps  (Fig.  3).  Punch  in  nails  and  paint  or  varnish  finished  slide. 


I  I  6 


ALTERNATE: 

SUGGESTION 


rOR  HANDLES      T 


N.PX, 

kSHOWING  STRINGS 
ANDTRCADSBEIMG 
GLUED  TOGETHER 


FRONT  FRAniNC 
READY  FOR 
ASSEMBLING 


FINAL  ASSEMBLY 

OF  STEPS  AND 
FRONT 


H42-H   BEVELS  FOR  STRINGS  k3 


I   I  7 


CLIMBING     FRAME     AND     SLIDE 

This  thrilling  piece  of  nursery  apparatus,  up  which  a  child  can  climb  to  a 
"  great  "  height  and  descend  swiftly  without  hurt,  consists  of  a  framed  tower 
5'  6"  high,  2'  0"  wide  and  I'  6"  deep  together  with  a  slide  or  chute  9'  0" 
long  and  I'  0"  wide. 

When  in  use  (Fig.  2)  the  chute  is  attached  to  the  tower  by  two  hooks  (Figs. 
3  and  9)  screwed  to  one  end,  which  engage  in  two  sockets  (Figs.  4  and  8) 
attached  to  the  platform  rail  of  the  tower.  Three  flat  hooks  (Figs.  5  and  9) 
screwed  to  the  back  of  the  chute  hold  it  to  the  tower  for  storing  away  (Fig.  I). 
These  should  be  placed  so  that  the  end  of  the  chute  rests  on  the  floor,  one  flat 
hook  engaging  in  a  socket  screwed  to  the  bottom  rail  (Figs.  2  and  8),  while 
the  other  two  drop  into  the  sockets  used  for  hooking  the  chute  to  the  tower. 
To  render  this  hook-up  easy  the  top  hooks  should  be  fixed  to  engage  a  little 
"  late,"  i.e.,  they  should  commence  to  drop  into  the  sockets  after  the  bottom 
hook  is  already  engaged  for  about  half  an  inch  of  its  length. 

CONSTRUCTION   OF  TOWER 

POSTS. — Four  required  each  5'  6"  long  by  |i"  square.  One  of  the  front  pair  is 
shown  in  Fig.  6,  and  one  of  the  back  pair  in  Fig.  7.  Carefully  mark  out  the  posts  as  a 
"  set,"  then  cut  mortices  to  a  depth  of  |". 

SIDE  RAILS.— Six  required  each  I'  5"  x  l£"  X  f  and  four  each  I  5"  x  2^"  x  f". 
The  distance  between  the  shoulders  should  be  I'  3"  and  the  thickness  of  the  tenon  £". 

FRONT  AND  BACK  RAILS.— Four  required  each  I'  II"  x  2£*  x  |"  and  three  each 
I'  ITx  1 5"  X  f.  The  distance  between  the  shoulders  is  I '  9".  The  ends  of  intersecting 
tenons  should  be  mitred.  Extra  length  for  the  tenon  may  be  gained  by  bringing  tKe 
mortices  nearer  the  face  of  the  post  instead  of  cutting  them  in  the  middle  as  shown  in 
Figs.  6  and  7. 

PLATFORM. — Five  pieces  each  2'  0"  x  2£"  x  |"  screwed  to  the  rails  with  spaces 
of  |"  between. 

TO  GLUE  UP. — Clean  up  posts  and  rails.  Glue  side  framings  first,  taking  care 
they  are  square  and  flat.  Clean  off  surplus  glue.  When  set,  glue  and  insert  front  and 
back  rails,  checking  again  for  squareness.  Screw  down  platform  pieces. 

CONSTRUCTION   OF  CHUTE 

The  chute  is  9'  0"  x  I'  0*  and  may  be  of  one  piece,  or  two  or  more  9'  0"  lengths 
glued  together.  Light  battens  may  be  added  if  necessary.  Complete  by  two  edging 
pieces  9'  0"  X  2^"  X  |"  rounded  on  one  edge  and  tongued  and  grooved,  or  screwed, 
to  the  edges  of  the  wide  piece. 

FINISHING. — Screw  hooks  in  positions  indicated  and  paint  in  bright  colours. 

I  I  8 


FlGl 


h-«- 


FRONT 


SOCKETS 

FOR 

HOOKING 
CHUTE. 

TO 
TOWER 


-FLAT 
HOOKS 


:.r 
^ 

i 


IlCt  9     HOOKS 

"•to 


as 


TIG  3 


I  I  9 


JUNGLE.  GYM 

This  climbing  frame  or  "Jungle-Gym  "  requires  a  large  room  or  garden,  but 
it  provides  amusement  and  valuable  climbing  exercise  equally  well  for  a 
group  of  children  in  a  nursery  as  for  the  individual  child  in  the  home.  The 
frame  is  6'  0"  X  6'  0*  x  6'  0"  with  a  central  tower  7'  6"  high.  Deal  is 
suggested  for  its  construction. 

CONSTRUCTION 

Prepare  four  corner  posts  6'  0"  x  2^"  x  1\n  (Fig.  5).  Mark  out  and  cut  the  four 
¥  mortices  in  each  (Figs.  3  and  5),  and  bore  six  f  holes,  three  in  each  side.  The  holes 
are  2"  deep  and  are  staggered  (Fig.  5).  Now  prepare  the  eight  intermediate  posts  on 
the  outside  of  the  frame,  which  are  6'  0"  X  2"  x  2".  Cut  bridle  joints  at  top  and  bottom 
(Fig.  3).  Mark  out  and  bore  holes  from  side  to  side  to  register  with  those  on  the  near 
face  of  the  corner  posts.  Bore  holes  also  on  the  inner  side  l|"  deep  to  register  with 
those  on  the  corresponding  face  of  the  corner  post.  Note  that  the  holes  on  either  side 
of  the  "  break  "  in  front  are  not  carried  through.  Four  "  tower  "  posts  should  now 
be  prepared  7'  6"  X  2"  x  2".  These  should  have  "  through  "  holes  on  all  sides  except 
at  the  top  where  the  rods  are  level  and  in  holes  I"  deep  (Fig.  2).  Now  cut  and  fit  the 
seven  long  rails,  which  are  5'  I0£"  x  2%"  x  §"  (Fig.  4),  and  the  two  short  rails  on  either 
side  of  the  break,  which  are  of  the  same  section  as  the  long  ones  and  I'  9"  between  the 
shoulders.  Lastly  cut  twenty-three  pieces  off"  diameter  rod,  each  5'  1 1"  long,  and  two 
pieces  2'  0^"  long.  Clean  up  all  parts. 

ASSEMBLY. — Glue  together  two  opposite  sides,  taking  great  care  that  both  are  square. 
Frame  up  the  "  tower  "  with  all  the  internal  rods  in  position,  then  fasten  the  remaining 
intermediate  posts  to  the  ends  of  the  rods  passing  through  the  tower.  Glue  and  screw 
the  five  rails  still  left,  including  both  short  rails,  to  the  posts.  Slide  the  external  rods, 
including  the  two  short  ones,  into  place  and  fasten  on  the  two  sides  first  glued  up. 
Complete  the  frame  by  screwing  into  place  the  five  battens  forming  the  platform.  These 
are  2'  I"  x  3"  x  |*. 

NOTE. — Two  1 1"  No.  12  screws  should  be  put  in  each  joint  and  one  l£"  oval  nail 
through  each  rod  connection.  It  is  very  important,  when  gluing  up  and  assembling, 
constantly  to  check  for  squareness  and  size. 


20 


o= 


PLAN 


6  0 


fiGl 

LLLVATI01S  or  FRONT 

o 

\D 


ELEVATION  Or  TWO 

5IDE5  AND  BACK. 


60 


SHOWING  BRIDLL  JOINT 

Jl  JOINTS  BETWCEh  BETWEEN  / 

1 1  INTERMEDIATE:  CORNER  POSTS 

r  P03T5  AND  RAILS  AMD  RAILS 


FIG  4 


FIG 


TOP  AMD  BOTTOM  RAILS 


LLO/ATIONSOFTOWtR 


POST 


T.— 10 


2  I 


GENERAL     HINTS 

Below  and  on  the  opposite  page  are  set  out  a  few  suggestions  to  help  the  less 
experienced  worker.  Most  of  the  operations  mentioned  occur  frequently  in 
the  constructions  described  throughout  the  book  and  their  collection  here 
will  save  needless  repetition  throughout  the  text. 

SQUARING. — Two  methods  of  squaring  framing  are  illustrated  in  Fig.  I.  Where  the 
frame  is  large  a  "  rod  "  is  used.  The  frame  is  glued,  cramped  up,  and  adjusted  until 
both  diagonals  are  equal.  The  joints  are  then  fixed  by  driving  in  the  wedges.  The 
second  sketch  shows  the  use  of  a  try  square  for  squaring  a  small  frame. 

NUMBERING  JOINTS  (Fig.  2).— As  each  joint  is  fitted  together  "  dry  "  the  several 
parts  should  be  numbered  as  in  Fig.  2.  This  ensures  that  the  fitted  parts  are  brought 
together  again  in  correct  position  when  the  frame  is  finally  assembled  and  glued  up. 

HINGING  (Fig.  3). — One  method  is  shown.  Mark  out  position  of  hinge  which  should 
be  clear  of  the  corner  joints.  Set  the  marking  gauge  to  the  width  of  the  flange,  i.e.,  from 
the  edge  of  the  flange  to  the  centre  of  the  knuckle,  and  gauge  this  width  on  the  edge  of 
the  frame.  Now  set  the  gauge  to  half  the  thickness  of  the  hinge  at  the  joint  and  mark 
this  on  the  face.  Cut  out  the  sinking  for  the  hinge.  Note  that  at  the  back  of  the  sinking 
the  depth  should  be  equal  to  the  thickness  of  the  flange. 

SCREWING  (Fig.  4). — Two  pieces  to  be  screwed  together  are  shown  in  Fig.  4.  First 
bore  a  hole  of  the  same  size  as  the  shank  of  the  screw,  then  make  a  start  for  the  screw 
below  this  with  a  small  drill  or  bradawl.  Countersink  the  shank  hole  and  screw  pieces 
together.  A  little  grease  on  the  point  of  the  screw  helps  both  its  entry  and,  if  necessary, 
its  later  withdrawal. 

NAILING. — Nails  should  always  be  driven  obliquely  into  end  grain  so  that  they  have 
a  dovetail  effect — see  section  on  "  Joints." 

BORING. — When  boring  through  timber  bore  until  the  point  of  the  bit  just  appears 
on  the  other  side,  then  turn  the  piece  over,  insert  the  point  of  the  bit  in  the  small  hole 
it  previously  made  and  complete  the  boring. 

DOWELLING  (Fig.  5). — Hold  both  pieces  together  in  the  vice  and  mark  out  the 
positions  of  the  dowels.  Set  gauge  to  centre  of  piece  and  gauge  as  in  Fig.  5.  Bore  holes 
I*  to  l£"  deep.  Cut  dowels  and  make  saw-cuts  along  them  to  allow  air  and  surplus  glue 
to  escape  from  holes.  Glue  dowels  into  one  side  first,  clean  off  squeezed-out  glue,  glue 
edges  to  be  joined,  place  second  piece  over  dowels  and  cramp  up. 

GLUING. — Use  only  clean,  hot  glue.  Always  apply  glue  to  all  parts  to  be  joined 
and  wash  glue  brush  when  finished. 

SHAPING  CURVES  (Fig.  6). — After  cutting  with  bow  saw  finish  with  flat  spokeshave 
for  outside  curves  and  round  spokeshave  for  inside  curves  (Fig.  6).  Curves  may  be  cut 
without  bow  or  fretsaw.  Convex  curves  may  be  cut  with  a  tenon  saw  at  a  tangent  to 
the  curve,  the  ridges  then  being  removed  with  flat  spokeshave  or  chisel  and  file.  For 
concave  curves  a  series  of  saw-cuts  are  made  to  the  curve  and  waste  cleaned  out  with 
gouge. 

(Continued  on  Page  124) 
I  22 


WITH  ROD 


Fi&l 

SQUARING 


WITH  LARGE: 
TRY-SQUARE 


SQUARING  ROD 


Rc.3 

5KCTCH  5HOWIMG 
TUO  FRAMES  WITH 
5INKING5  fOR 
BUTT  HlhGES 


EflLARGEO  SECTION 
WITH  HINGL1N  PLACE 


ECTIOh  THROUGH 
AMK  HOLE 


FlG.  6      SHAPING  CURVES 
CHI5[L 


LIGHTIHG  BATTEM    FOOTUGHT 


UfSDCR^DEl  OF  BATTEN 


ARROWS  SHOW  DIRtCTlOH  Of  5POKDHAVE 


WIRING  DIAGRAM 


Q      TO  PLUG-^- 


I  23 


GENERAL     HINT  S— continued 

STAGE  LIGHTING  (Fig.  7). — For  the  model  theatre  lamp  holders  may  be  screwed 
to  a  small  batten  and  wired  as  shown.  If  a  footlight  is  required  a  piece  of  tin-plate  may 
be  bent  and  screwed  to  the  edge  of  the  batten. 

CURTAINS  for  the  small  theatres  may  be  suspended  from  rings  sliding  along  special 
extension  wire  or  they  may  be  hooked  on  runners  travelling  on  brass  rails  sold  for  the 
purpose  in  most  furnishing  and  hardware  shops.  In  some  cases  a  length  of  dowel  rod 
may  suffice. 


FINISHING    BY    PAINTING    OR    STAINING 

A  bright  and  pleasing  selection  of  colour  greatly  enhances  the  attractiveness 
of  a  toy  and  as  much  thought  and  care  should  be  given  to  its  general  finishing 
as  to  its  construction.  Toys  are  usually  finished  by  painting,  or  by  staining 
followed  by  polishing  or  varnishing.  Preparation  for  both  is  on  similar  lines. 

PREPARATION. — Too  much  care  cannot  be  given  to  this.  Before  the  toy  is  assembled 
all  parts  should  be  cleaned  up.  After  assembly  the  whole  should  be  smoothed  with 
glasspaper  wrapped  round  a  cork  or  wood  block.  Begin  with  M.2  glasspaper  and  finish 
with  No.  I-. 

PAINTING. — Before  painting  all  knots  should  be  given  a  coat  of  "  knotting  "  or 
French  polish.  A  priming  or  undercoat  should  then  be  applied,  after  which  all  cracks 
or  nail  holes  should  be  stopped  with  putty  rubbed  down  when  hard  with  fine  glasspaper. 
Another  undercoat  should  then  be  applied  and  rubbed  down  as  before.  Finally  a  coat 
of  hard  gloss  paint  or  enamel  should  be  given.  Brushes  should  always  be  cleaned  after 
use  and  tins  of  paint  kept  closed  when  not  in  use. 

STAINING  AND  POLISHING.— There  are  three  types  of  stain— water,  oil  and  spirit. 
The  last  is  best  to  use  as  it  dries  rapidly  and  is  obtainable  in  a  good  range  of  attractive 
colours.  Before  staining  it  is  advisable  to  damp  the  surfaces  with  clean  warm  water 
in  order  to  raise  the  short  particles  of  grain.  When  dry  they  should  be  smoothed  again 
with  fine  glasspaper.  Apply  the  stain  by  means  of  brush  or  cloth  and,  when  dry,  follow 
with  a  coat  of  varnish  or  polish. 

SELECTION  OF  COLOUR.— Bright,  cheerful  colours  should  always  be  used  but 
care  should  be  exercised  in  their  selection.  Large  surfaces  of  contrasting  colour  may 
have  a  disturbing  effect,  but  the  same  colours  if  one  is  predominant  may  be  very  pleasing, 
e.g.,  where  the  broad  surfaces  are  painted  in  one  colour  and  a  contrasting  colour  is 
used  for  the  edges  or  smaller  parts.  On  broad  surfaces  grey  offers  a  very  good  "  back- 
ground "  for  most  colours  except  black.  White,  for  obvious  reasons,  is  rarely  a  suitable 
colour.  Very  useful  colours  are  Signal  Red,  Emerald  Green,  Chrome  Yellow,  Ultramarine, 
French  Grey  and  Black. 

I  24 


TOOLS 

Below  is  set  out  a  list  of  tools  with  which  the  to/maker  can  construct  all  the 
toys  described  in  this  book.  The  beginner  is  advised  to  buy  them  singly 
and  not  in  sets,  and  if  possible  to  get  a  carpenter  friend  to  help  him  to  select 
them.  For  the  construction  of  many  of  the  toys  the  short  list  of  tools  marked 
by  an  asterisk  will  suffice. 

Jack  plane  ;  *Smoothing  plane,  metal  if  possible  ;  Plough  plane  ;  Panel  saw  ;  "Tenon 
saw,  12  in.  ;  Bow  saw,  8  in.  ;  Hacksaw  ;  *Try  square,  6  in.  ;  *Rule,  2  ft.,  four-fold  ; 
Mortice  gauge  ;  Marking  gauge  ;  Spokeshaves,  one  flat  and  one  round  ;  Glue  pot  ; 
*Mallet  ;  *Hammer,  No.  2  ;  *Screwd rivers,  one  large  and  one  small  ;  *Brace  ;  *Centre 
bits,  i",  i",  |",  |",  I"  ;  Hand  drill  ;  Morse  drills,  i",  &",  \"  ;  *Chisels,  firmer, 
£".  £*,  |",  I";  Pincers;  Bradawl;  "G"  cramps,  two;  Sash  cramps,  two,  30"; 
*Oil  stone,  "  India  Combination  "  ;  Tinman's  snips  ;  Nail  punch  ;  Centre  punch  ; 
File,  half  round,  10"  bastard  cut. 


I  25 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


REC'D 


Rp-V 

JAN  i  , . 

3  ' 


OCT131988 


3  1158  01098  819 


A     000  031  969 


Unive: 

Soi 

Li 


